Outback trip from Melbourne

Submitted: Monday, Jun 13, 2011 at 01:02
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Hi all ExplorOz bloggers - new to this site and in the process of planning our outback holiday - (we leave in two weeks) Just need a little advise from all you adventurers out there that have some experience traveling these areas. It is such a huge country - I'm just a little overwhelmed at the moment - as there is so much to see and only 3 weeks to see it in!!!
Have finally decided on leaving Melbourne and staying overnight at Mildura then hopefully will get to Wilpena Pound for 2 nights then on to Lake Eyre. Hope to stay at Muloorina Station and also Halligan Bay but not sure if we will be able to tow our trailer to these camping grounds as it is not off road. (We have a 4WD) Are we better off staying at Coward Springs or William Springs and just going for the day to Lake Eyre??
Another question - would we be able to take the trailer through the Painted Desert as it sounds a fabulous way to cut across to the Stuart Highway - is there much to see if we kept going all the way through to the end of the Oodnadatta Track?
Next destination is Ayers Rock Resort although wondering if anyone has stayed at the Curtin Springs Cattlestation & camping ground? What's it like? We are visiting Uluru, the Olgas, then Kings Canyon & West MacDonnell Ranges, Finke Gorge National Park and Alice Springs before heading to Coober Pedy then homeward bound..... should be quite a trip.
Would love to hear from you travellers out there with all your knowledge and experience - travelling with 3 children and my husband. Does this trip sound like it's do-able!!!! Or am I trying to fit too much in....???
Appreciate some feedback... Thanks so much
Rose
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Reply By: tommo05 - Monday, Jun 13, 2011 at 11:53

Monday, Jun 13, 2011 at 11:53
Hi Rose, sounds like a great trip. We are also from Melbourne and did a similar trip in March/April for two weeks. The only difference really is we went up to Innamincka and down the Strzelecki track, and we ran out of time to get to the MacDonnell Ranges and Finke Gorge. Also some of the roads were still closed so we couldn't get to the Painted Desert or Muloorina Station. So I'll answer what I can..
The last 10 kms of the track to Halligan Bay are very much 4wd only, so I wouldn't recommend towing the trailer. Having said that, it wouldn't hurt to ask the locals at the William Creek pub, they will be able to tell you for sure what the road condition is and perhaps it has improved since we were there. I would recommend going there if you can, it was the most magic spot we camped on our trip and it is the only place where you can actually camp beside the lake.Muloorina Station is about 40kms from the lake. Not sure what the road is like to get to Muloorina Station but if it is in good condition you should be able to get the trailer in I think.
Coward Springs is a lovely campsite so it's not a bad option no matter what happens.
As I say we couldn't get to the Painted Desert, which was a big disappointment for me. You're not missing much from Oodnadatta to Marla, I would definitely recommend going via the Painted Desert.
We didn't stay at Curtin Springs but we stopped there for fuel. They have a very friendly resident emu! Looked like a decent spot, pretty basic but I would expect a lot cheaper than Uluru.
Not sure what the road is like from Kings Canyon to Hermannsburg and then into Finke Gorge. Finke Gorge in particular might not be suitable for the trailer, but hopefully someone else here can give you some advice there. I can tell you that we tried to cut through to Alice Springs via the Ernest Giles Road (which runs through south of Finke Gorge) and it was one of the most corrugated roads I have ever been on - and we're originally from the Kimberley so we've seen a few. Turned round after 10 minutes and decided to stick to the bitumen!
Your trip is do-able... just! You will constantly be on the move, but I know what it's like, you only have so much time and there's so much to see! Just be prepared to have to miss out on some of it if you have to, you never know what might happen and even something as simple as a flat tyre can throw your plans out when you're on a tight schedule. As I say we missed out on the MacDonnell Ranges and Finke Gorge, but still we saw so much I came home totally satisfied. Either way you will have a ball, and it's a great way to get away from this awful cold Melbourne weather!

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Follow Up By: Rose B - Monday, Jun 13, 2011 at 16:02

Monday, Jun 13, 2011 at 16:02
Thanks so much for all that information Tommo05 - looks like we will have to wait till we get to mabey Maree before making a decision about camping around Lake Eyre... just can't wait!!! Sounds awesome.. Haven't done much camping...There is so much to see and when you start investigating all these places on the internet you get such a sense of this vast magnificent country we live in. We have our other two kids flying to Alice to meet us for the Uluru/Kings canyon/West Mac time so will be pretty busy and I'm sure my itinerary will not always be on track.. flexibiilty needed I suppose...we have three weeks so hopefully will do most of it... Lake Eyre and the Centre are probably the most important part as we can see places that are closer some other time.
Another question while I think of it - is it worth taking a tarp or shade cloth to put underneath the tent? I figure that we won't be always camping on grass!!!! Also have you heard anything about the mice plague??? Not sure about that one!!!
Thanks so much for your feedback...has already helped to help with my itinerary.
I am looking forward to leaving this awful Melbourne weather but I am concerned with the freezing cold nights we are going to experience in our tent. And hopefully the days will be above 15 degrees..!!!!
Cheers Rose
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Follow Up By: tommo05 - Monday, Jun 13, 2011 at 17:32

Monday, Jun 13, 2011 at 17:32
Hey Rose
I mis-read your first post, thought you said you have 2 weeks, 3 weeks should be a little more comfortable. I would say barring any unforeseen dramas (touch wood, let's not tempt fate) you will be able to see it all. As you say, flexibility, and that's one definite advantage to camping rather than being tied to pre-booked accommodation.
When you get to Marree have a chat to Lyall at the roadhouse/general store. He's the local expert and he'll be able to tell you all you need to know about getting into Muloorina Station.
I always take a big roll of shadecloth wherever I go, it's definitely worth it because even if you're on grass, it'll often have prickles or doublegees in it. Most caravan parks and the resorts at Uluru and Kings Canyon have grassy sites, but the rest of the time you'll be in the dirt or sand.
I'd forgotten about the mice plague, it doesn't sound very pleasant huh? Not sure how it is at the moment and it might not hurt to make another post here asking for an update. I haven't seen a post on it here for a few weeks, so I don't know if that's because it's gotten better or if it's old news. People were talking about it when we went, but we didn't encounter any mice. Pretty sure it got much worse though, reports were mixed with some people saying they only saw the odd one here and there, others saying they were relentless. So hopefully it has improved, either way I would recommend keeping your tent zipped up at all times!
The nights will be rather cool yes, make sure you pack the thermals! But it'll be nice in the car when the sun is shining during the day.
If you haven't already found this site, check it out:
http://www.lakeeyreyc.com/Status/latest.html
Aside from showing you how much water is in the lake, it has very useful links to road and weather conditions for the Lake Eyre part of your trip.
Enjoy! It's so awesome being in the middle of nowhere, the hardest thing is coming home!
Tommo

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Reply By: Eric Experience - Monday, Jun 13, 2011 at 21:35

Monday, Jun 13, 2011 at 21:35
Rose.
Betty and I are doing a similar trip, We have arranged to meet up with another couple at Wilpena on the 30th. We hope to go to the camel race at Marree on the 9th and then the Lake Eyre Yatch club regatta on the 10th. Eric
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Follow Up By: Rose B - Monday, Jun 13, 2011 at 23:45

Monday, Jun 13, 2011 at 23:45
Hi Eric - sounds like you are going to be very busy on your trip socializing!! Hope you have a wonderful trip - we are really just passing through Wilpena as we will probably do the Flinders Ranges another time... keen to keep travelling north to the warmer weather!! Lake Eyre seems to have reasonable weather at the moment. Have bought thermals for the cold nights but not too sure about how warm the tent is going to be - probably freezing!!!! Anyway part of the adventure - my boys are going to love it.... Enjoy your trip.
Rose
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Reply By: Member - Mark (Tamworth NSW) - Tuesday, Jun 14, 2011 at 09:13

Tuesday, Jun 14, 2011 at 09:13
Trip is maybe just do able in terms of time, maybe a bit ambitious time wise by 2-3 days. We did similar over 3 weeks, skipped time at The Flinders Ranges and Lake Eyre but came back via western Qld.
IF you have to leave something out, skip Alice Springs and do it another time when you travel further north, or skip The Flinders and do them when you have a spare week from Melbourne.

Make sure you have your trailer bearings replaced or re packed with grease now, then take the trailer for a 50km run then re tighten or re check them. Best to do it before you leave and make sure you have decent tyres on it, not 20 year old, near worn out tyres most of us use on the box trailer. Also take a spare trailer tyre.

Painted desert when we did it 3 years ago could have been done in a low small car if driven carefully. If the road is as we found it, your trailer will be fine, Road (Meerinie Loop) from Kings Canyon around to the West Macs is a bit ordinary, but I saw regular caravans doing it OK, albeit at 40km/hour.

Generally speaking it is all about ground clearance, ability to withstand gravel being thrown backwards from your tow vehicle and finally not over loading.
IF you do travel for extended distances on gravel roads, make sure the rear window of your vehicle is covered with neoprene type rubber/ beer cartons/ real estate advertising signs to protect it from stones being bounced off your trailer. If you have no trailer stone guard, travel @ < 80km/hr on roads with gravel/ stones, to protect the rear door paint work of your vehicle.
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Follow Up By: Member - Mark (Tamworth NSW) - Tuesday, Jun 14, 2011 at 10:02

Tuesday, Jun 14, 2011 at 10:02
PS
Shade cloth flooring is very good idea as substantially reduces grass, sand & crap into yout tent when you use it as a mat in front of your tent door. Depending on your tent and ground surface, it will reduce chance of stones cutting the flooring and reduces dirt sticking to flooring when packing up your tent.
We always take our shade cloth flooring with us
We never saw any grass sites between Port Augusta and Alice Springs, though there were some sites at Kings Ck Station.
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