Litchfield/Kakadu

Ah well, all depends what you're after and how long you've got.

Litchfield has many great watering holes for cooling off in. Wangi Falls, Florence Falls, Buley Rockholes are all great, but do get busy, so don't expect to feel like you're in remote wilderness. Sandy Creek falls is along a short 4wd road, and there is a nice bush camp site at the start of the 30 minute walk to the waterhole. It is quieter than the other spots, and is by far our favourite. Tolmer falls has a good viewing platform. The great advantage of Litchfield is it is all relatively close together, and therefore easily accessed in just a couple of days. Our first choice camp site is the Wangi Falls Caravan Park (not the one at the falls itself, but about 5ks further on if travelling clockwise round the park). Don't let the caravan park name put you off. Someone has stuck a gate at the start to some bush, and you can choose a very nice secluded spot, but with only a short walk to some very adequate facilities. We've got kids, and the family washroom was a real bonus.

Kakadu. Or Kakadon't as some of the locals here call it. The biggest problems with Kakadu are distance and unreasonable expectations. People visit expecting it to be teeming with wildlife right at your feet, which just does not happen. Access is restricted to the key wilderness areas - they don't appear on maps or anything. Remember, Kakadu is heritage listed for it's ecological significance and for it's cultural importance, and neither of these are conducive to being overrun with visitors.
Having said that, any visit to Kakadu is worthwhile. In June / July you can make the effort to get to Jim Jim Falls. Looking up at the cliffs is something you won't forget in a hurry. The aboriginal rock art around Nourlangie (and Ubirr) is interesting. The Yellow Waters cruise does give a glimpse of wildlife, and gives a good impression of what the wetlands can be like. You also have some other sites like Gunlom. Probably the best gorge I've visited is Koolpin. This is restricted access, requiring an entry permit that you must get in advance, and then present to pick up a key. The advantage of this is it is quieter than other sites due to the permit restriction, although this does not mean you will have the place to yourself.

Hope the above helps you come to some decision yourself. If you would like to talk about anything further about the top end, drop me an e-mail on robin@thehiltons.co.uk.

gday lyn
its been a good 15years since i went there but litchfield to me was by far the prityer park & was less turisty than kakadu but by now they are probably both over run by tourist
regards bruce

Hi Lyn, they are both fantastic places, both quit different and both worth a visit.

Don’t be put off by some of the locals calling Kakadu Kakadon’t – some of them have never even been there and of the ones that have most have never left the bitumen!

If you have to, you can see Litchfield’s main attractions in a day, but two would be better. As for Kakadu, well you could spend a few days or a few weeks. It’s a big park, but make sure you get off the 'black top' and explore some of the dirt roads & tracks. Jim Jim Falls is a must do as is Ubirr (preferably at sunset).

At a pinch do two nights at Kakadu – go to Ubirr on your first afternoon/evening, then go to Jim Jim Falls the following day then take a cruise at Yellow waters the following morning and head out after lunch.

If it can only be one or the other – I’d have to toss a coin .We loved them both and cant wait to get back.

Hope this helps a bit:-)
Cheers
Alex

We were there in September and owing to time constraints, we spent a full day at Litchfield and 2 days at Kakadu. The only must do we had in Kakadu was the Yellow Waters cruise which was well worth the trip. We will be up there in July with more time to spend in the parks.

goodday mrs al
we did this trip last august /sept 30 days from go to whoa we did both litchfield and a couple of days in kakadoo and managed to come back down the oodnadatta track some things we would change but we had a ball if want i could find our planning notes and send them to you .
we planned day by day to get thru quick to adrwin so that we could spend maximumtime up there but there are a lot of distractions up and down if you can fit it in you can do kakadoo in a long day (5-30 start back late its a long day for kids or stay o/nite yellow water tour was great(sunset tour)on the way out you have jumping croc boat ride and view to the wetlands (great)
Lyn how long do you have up there ,is al a fisherman if so a day at Mary river would be great unforunately i missed out but next time any way if you want any info yell out we have mast of the tourist info place here or a good place will be the caravan show to get info .

we love it up there
steve imagine a 03 gu 4.2tdin the picture
as i am having trouble sizing the picture

I agree with the above comments. We also had heard bad reports of Kakadu and went to Litchfield and almost gave Kakadu a miss, but after going there were really impressed and glad we took the time to go. Its a place where a little research and effort is required to ensure that you don't miss the great places. There are limited swimming areas, and some of the places get a little busy with the bus loads of back packers but there are still plenty of options to ensure a great time. We spent 5 nights and could have stayed longer if time permitted. Apart from the beauty of the place we especially enjoyed the slide nights which the Rangers put on in some of the camp sites.

Lyn,

Having lived and worked in the NT both parks are worth a visit, as are the Mataranka springs, Katherine Gorge, and the list goes on...If you can get a hand on the current BP Guide to Touring Australia, I have a 1995 edition, that has detailed information on places to visit and services available for all places in all states in Australia. An excellent and required resource for the 4wd traveller.

You are choosing a good time of the year to go 30 degree days every day for six months, clear blue sky, makes me want to move back again (especially with this Melbourne weather).

You shouldn't have croc trouble either, (well you can never be over-confident and you shouldn't be either), I almost was chewed up by a saltwater croc in Katherine, (300 kms inland!!), in 1994 after some heavy buildup season rains- my bluey saved me on that occasion. (See NT News article front page-October).

Regards,
zac_sprint

ps: In January 1995 we found a saltwater croc 20 kms south of Tennant Creek. It was alive lying on the side of the Stuart Highway. Gave me a hell of a fright when my Cibie lights picked it out on my way North. Emergency services were soon on the scene to capture it. So it pays to take precautions wherever you go.

Ha, Ha, Ha.......!

Probably for a feed!

zac_sprint

Mrs Al,
We had a rushed couple of weeks, up that way last Sept/Oct school holidays. Can't help you with Litchfield(though photos of it look good), but we had 4 days in Kakadu, staying at Cooinda. Did as much as we could in that time, but spent a lot of time travelling to a number of the sites. Went to Ubir, Jim Jim Falls, Nourlangie, walked down the East Alligator looking for salties(saw heaps) and went down towards Gunlom, to have a look at Gimbat Station, and El Sherana mine(long story about the last 2). As a finale had a late afternoon boat trip around Yellow Waters, where we saw heaps of bird life, different flora and a number of crocs-why a couple were even posing, in the nude, on the bank for us.

Was a bit humid when we were up there, but June/July should be magic. As it had recently been graded, we travelled up to Darwin along the old Jim Jim road. Had a couple of nights in Darwin, and camped a night at Daly Waters pub, on the trip home.

No.2 daughter has worked at Cooinda the last 2 years, hence the rushed trip. If we went to see her again, we would fly up and rent a car. But there's heaps to see on the way, was a nostalgia trip for me as hadn't been up that way for 30 years.

Don't miss the Adelaide River war cemetry, a sad, but special place.

Enjoy the planning,
Hooroo...

The Banyan Tree C/P on the way in to Litchfield...try to get there on a saturday...when we were there they put on an absolutely fantastic barby of , prawns , steak , and barramundi and salads...about $12 a head all you can eat...nice clean park..very friendly..reasonable rates..cuppa supplied on arrival..not far from park..top spot...cheers

Gidday Lyn.

Have you read post 5011 yet? Go past some of the nonsense and there are some good suggestions there.

If constrained by time, i.e. 3 days or so, I'd pick Litchfield. If you have at least 5 days up your sleeve, enjoy Kakadu. Smile, you're on ExplorOz
Rohan (Sydney - on the QLD side of the Harbour Bridge)

Just don't go to Litchfield on the weekend !!! Every one from Darwin is there. We were on our Kimbewrley trip and forgot day of the week it was and ended up there on the Saturday - from being isolated from people a fair bbit along the Kimberley - it was a shock to caome to a park where access was to everyone - 2WD vehicle access, coaches etc
Cheers JeffCheers, Beddo
Surf KZN185
<- Yengo NP, Central Coast NSW

Hi Lyn
I wouldn't be going all that way just to see one. They are totally different and each deserves to be visited. Work on that itinerary a bit more so you can fit them both in. Take note of the comment re weekends at Litchfield - it's no joke - gets bloody busy. We got caught out too.

Al & Mrs Al,
Kakadu is a wilderness park which is quite large. Litchfield is a small park with limited area's and opportunities. Kakadu has a lot more to it than the tourist brocures tell you. The ammount you get out of Kakadu is relative tothe time and effort you spend while you are there. You need a a day at Litchfield and at least 3 days at Kakadu.
My wife and I moved to the NT last year and we have been to Kakadu three times since then but we have only scratched the surface.
Don't discount a trip across the Simpson as well it is sensational.
Happy travelling Doug

Hi Lyn,

Hope you all had a lovely Christmas and New Year and that Santa was kind, LOL. Not an easy question to answer because everyone has different perceptions of of places. First time I visited Kakadu and Litchfield (back in 1990) I came away thinking that Litchfield was my favourite. However, back then it was a very new NP, with only a handful of visitors and still relatively unknown so I think my impression was influenced by the fact that it was a very pleasant "surprise". On the other hand, I also loved Kakadu but because of all the the hype and publicity surrounding it (and justifiably so) it didn't have the same "surprise" impact.

Anyway, when we lived in Darwin we got the chance to explore both NP's extensively and the fact is we loved them both so I don't know how you can pick between them. Both parks are very different. Kakadu incorporates the North and South Alligator River wetlands which flood during the wet season but by the dry season the water has dried up leaving only billabongs, pools and waterways. This is why visitors at this time get to see such rich birdlife and wildlife - because it is concentrated around these areas. Kakadu also incorporates fringes of the Arnhemland escarparment with its towering gorges and waterfalls (ie. Jim Jim and Twin Falls) and dry savannah woodlands. So you see, there is a lot of diversity. As others have said though, Kakadu incorporates a very large area and depending on what attractions you choose to see, you have to allow for long periods in the car going between them. I think it is this aspect that disappoints some some visitors, particularly if they haven't allowed themselves enough time to explore the park.

I note that others above have recommended a visit to Jim Jim Falls (at that time of year the falls won't be flowing although the towering cliffs are well worth visiting anyway) and normally I would agree but knowing you have a young family you might be better off giving it a miss this time around. Reason being that because of the distance from most campsites and the 4WD access you need to allow at least a full day to explore Jim Jim & Twin Falls (most visitors incorporate both falls into a day trip). Then to access the plunge pool at Jim Jim Falls (and get the full impression of the magnificent cliffs above you) you have to follow the walking trail along the edge of the creek for a ways...easy except for the last 100-200 metres which involves scrambling over large boulders lining the river bed. This would not be easy with two very young children in tow. Next up is Twin Falls...a short easy walk to the creek then you have to swim or paddle several hundred metres up the gorge actually see the falls. Unless you are a confident, strong swimmer many find this challenge a bit too daunting. Ideally, you should take a canoe/kayak or inflatable vessel of some sort (even a tyre tube to hang onto) but again, with young kids it might be a bit too much. Mind you, it is a delightful place to swim even if you don't bother going up to the base of the falls.

If it was me with limited time and like you, with a young family, I would definitely do a Yellow Water cruise (either the dawn or late afternoon one) which is absolutely delightful...great birdlife, great scenery and you WILL see crocs. I know our son would love it (as do we having done the cruise many times). I'd also visit Ubirr and Nourlangie Rock to see the aboriginal artwork and more great scenery. All are easily accessed on sealed roads. If you have more time available, there are plenty of other great attractions available...just take your pick. BTW, allow at least a few hours to wander around the Bowral visitors centre.

OK, now to Litchfield. Very different to Kakadu as it incorporates sandstone escarpments with very little wetlands. The main attractions are Tolmer, Wangi and Florence Falls (and Buley Rockholes at the top of Florence Falls) with swimming at all but the first and of course the magnetic termite mounds. As the park is quite small and these main attractions linked by sealed road, all can be easily visited in a single day. So basically, you can spend the day in your togs going from one attraction to the other. Only downside is that they will all be very busy at that time of year. If you can afford an extra day or two, camp in the park and get out in your 4WD to explore The Lost City, Blyth Homestead ruins and Sandy Creek Falls (good campground here not as busy as others because it is 4WD access only) although there is a longish walk from the campground to the falls and the water is absolutely freezing so you need to be brave, LOL. Another option is to drive back a short ways along the access track and cool off in one of the shallow pools in the creek.

For a Litchfield wetlands experience you might consider a Reynolds River cruise. This incorporates a short cruise up and down a large landlocked billabong with plenty of birdlife and freshwater crocs to be seen. The cruises are privately operated as the billabong is actually on private property and is not part of the NP (although I wouldn't be surprised if it is annexed at some future point in time). Note, the Yellow Water cruise in Kakadu is far better but this cruise is worth doing as an alternative.

Our favourite part of Litchfield is the southern 4WD access track which heads south from near Sandy Creek, criss-crosses the Reynolds River and eventually exits onto the Daly River Road. This track can be easily traversed in a day with the main attractions apart from the 4WDriving are getting away from the crowds, magnetic termite mounds and Surprise Creek Falls (where there is bush camping and excellent swimming) about halfway along.

Hope my comments are of some help Lyn. I have more details and pics on our website and feel free to email me if you have any other queries.

:o) MelissaPetrol 4.5L GU Patrol &
Camprite TL8 offroad camper
http://members.westnet.com.au/flatdog

good day lyn & al
couple of places 1 is darwin museum got sweetheart there big croc and an excellent display from cyclone tracy also mendel beach market thursday night and out on the start of the main wharf there are 2 places 1pearling display and 2nd a reef display also on the way up at the start (finish for us )between Lyndhurst and marree is a ghost?town FARINA it is a working station bur it has wonderful safe camping cheap no powered sites pick your own spot but has flushing toilets and a donkey hot water for showers (a lovely place ) also coward springs similar set up although we did not stay there william creek also has a nice c/park nice people and the pub across the road has cold beer and plenty of souveniors .its hard to say whoich is better the oodna burger or the william creek burger but its good fun putting them to the test
i dont know if you have found the site but ntta ithink thats it nt tourism and darwin tourist info the people there are very helpful .
just wish we were going that way again this year but decided to try q/land .
alice springs is a great place to big 4 park is great for the kids plenty of play area although pools are a bit cool then in darwin we stayed at Palms Village Resort (fpa ) park clean nice pool plenty of shade
anyway will sign off

steve imagine a 03 gu 4.2tdin the picture
as i am having trouble sizing the picture