Beating the dealer!

D-Max dealers are very keen, with a new model due soon, and the end of financial year coming up, they want to quit stock! No dealer likes to have large stocks at June 30th!
Another thing to remember is that dealers buy on floor plans.
A floor plan deal only lasts a certain time, usually about 3 mths. If the vehicle isn't sold in the life of the initial floor plan, they have to roll over the floor plan (refinance), and this costs extra $$'s!
If you can find a dealer with your model and they've reached the end of the initial floor plan agreement, they will be extra willing to quit it, so they don't have to roll over the floor plan.

I agree with other posts. The trick is to decide exactly what you want and get prices for exactly the same thing at lots of places. Don't let them tempt you with bells and whistles outside your brief... if you do it becomes hard to compare prices (which is exactly what a seller wants). Let them know what you are doing and that you are only accepting one price - "This is exactly what I want, I am going to 20 dealers and I am only coming here once.... what is your price.". Don't fall for "this price stands if you buy now before you leave the shop".... its rubbish.

If your buying a fleet It may work but if buying one I don't think the dealer would even bother.

Tenders are usually used for businesses sourcing a product.... what's the difference between a tender and an every day quote.

Might have to try it with the petrol companies :)

Hilux would have to be about one of the worst vehicles to get a big discount on..... they are selling well, are in short supply and dealers don't carry that much stock of them, they sell quickly.

First thing you have to do is build a relation ship with a dealer and at that dealer a sales person.

We have just placed an order for a new 3.2 lt Ford Ranger XLT 4x4, even that our fleet is nearly all Toyota including 4 SLWB Hiaces and a 200 series VX Landcruiser, we approached the Toyota dealer who we have a really good relation ship with and who we bought all our Toyotas through to quote on a new Hilux SR5 4X4.... they can back with their best price and the Ford dealership who we also have a really good relationship with but we only have one Ford in our fleet that gets turned over every 3 years..... they came back with a price we could not refuse.

Seriously and being logical there is that much fleet sales going on these days with businesses having a tax advantage after the 1st of July, the mining boom and the construction industry...... dealers make more money of then than a single customer sale and what stock they do get they give first option to businesses and being end of financial year where businesses are chasing new vehicles...... Now I not being smart or big headed but it's the truth.

I don't think you will find a 2011 plated new Hilux in stock and no dealer will supply a vin until you have signed the dotted line.

Price comes down to a lot of factors, what vehicles they have in stock at the time, what they have on order, what they can do a deal with another dealer for and cancelled orders that they might have a deposit for.

Dealers hate single vehicle purchases shopping around and chasing the last $, the dealers loose interest very quickly, your better off staying with one dealer and working them hard.... sure shop around at another few dealerships to find a base price but going to 20 dealers!

Best place for a base figure is web sites like car sales to see what other dealers are offering the vehicle for.

I think some sound advice in there from olcoolone...

Sometimes the cheapest price doesn’t always translate into the best deal over the longer-term. And by that I mean after-sales service etc. I always try to buy locally and support local businesses, regardless of what it is, but in return I expect the same response when it comes to after sales service... I think you get more buy-in from that approach.

Good luck with your purchase...

Good point The Landy. We used to bend over backwards to help our loyal customers, with service pick up & delivery or loan cars etc., as they say ..... what comes around goes around!
The other thing that I can assure you of is, that a lot of buyers are far more unscrupulous than any dealer!

D-Jack - I'd be surprised if there's any 2011 Hiluxes around that are still in new stock - but sometimes the less popular models hang around for a while.
I've been getting quite a few flyers in the mailbox for big car sales deals currently on, and it seems there's still quite a few of the 2011 models still available, in other brands.

Cheers - Ron.

The Carsales.com.au site is advertising at least 20 new 2011-plated Hiluxes for sale in NSW/ACT. There'll be more that aren't advertised, or are advertised elsewhere.
As I stated, the ones currently on offer are the models less in demand, such as petrol and 4 cyl models.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/results.aspx?eapi=2&silo=Stock&N=898%204294962861%204294962537%201216%201246&vertical=Car&Range=Year:2011,2011

And out of 20 on car sales 2 were 4x4.... 1 base model and one SR.

D-Jack - You didn't elaborate, but I presume you're looking for a dual-cab, SR5, turbo-diesel auto Hilux?
If so, you're looking at the "premium" range in the Hilux, and as such, the demand for this model is enormous, and the discounts will be minimal.

Carsales.com.au lists 51 new, KUN26R model Hiluxes, on offer from dealers, Australia-wide. 50 are 2012 models, and some of the offers are for vehicles slated for July delivery. It's dealers dream to sell cars before they even arrive, so that's indicative of demand.

There's one 2011-plated KUN26R on offer in S.A. The colour is Ink (a dark Navy Blue). The price is POA.
There could be a couple of reasons why this popular vehicle is still there.
The major one could be that the dealer is asking a premium on the RRP. The second reason is that it could be a dealer where dual-cab sales are less common, and single cab traytops are the primary orders in that area.

However, a 2011-plated Hilux has to incur a discounted sale price, regardless of the dealers attitude.
Vehicles are sold on a year-identification basis, and it's effectively a year old already, and thus has to incur a discount on RRP.

The "going rate" for a new KUN26R is around the $54,000 mark. You'll find a few hundred dollars difference in pricing between States, with Victoria and QLD often the cheapest.
You should be able to acquire a new KUN26R for around $52,000 on a no-trade deal, and a new 2011-plated KUN26R should be at least $2000 cheaper again.

The amount of Stamp Duty varies substantially between states, and QLD was noted for many years to have the cheapest Stamp Duty on vehicle sales.
I purchased a used 1990 Mack prime mover in 1993 for $110,000. I'm W.A. based, but I bought it from a Vic. Mack dealer.
I took the truck to QLD on a permit and registered it there, and then brought the truck back to W.A. and swapped the rego to W.A. rego.

I saved over $10,000 in stamp duty on this deal by doing this, and this stunt was commonly known to W.A. buyers of expensive vehicles in that era.
I'm not sure if the differences in Stamp Duty still hold true, because I haven't followed them, and there's been lots of changes since the early 1990's.
Once you pay Stamp Duty on a purchase in one state, you do not have to pay SD again in another state, because of the free trade provisions in the Australian Constitution.

Who pays them for their services?

The spotter will get about $300 from the dealership, but most times the spotter delivers the vehicle to you.

That was exactly the point that I was trying to make, they are little more than glorified spotters.
I spent 17 years selling new cars & most of what has been said here is laughable. If you want a good deal, generally it is best to buy close to the end of a month, dealers work with monthly sales targets.

And the minute you put down more than about $5000 in cash for a new car, the ATO, the local Police Dept, and the Financial Transactions Reports division of the banking system, gets a computerised alert!

The FTR lower limit is supposed to be $10,000, but the authorities are always looking for people making multiple cash transactions that are less than $10,000, trying to avoid the $10,000 reporting limit!

People who whack down a huge wad of cash for a new car are immediately put under the spotlight, as drug dealers, or tax evaders. If you put down a large wad of cash, you'd better have a good story, when the authorities initiate an investigation!
I'll bet Shaker has some good stories about cash buyers of new cars!

In addition, cash doesn't talk in car dealerships, anyway. The dealers always have kickback deals in place with finance companies, and they make more out of a deal where they sell "dealer finance" with a car.
Now, I'll wager even Shaker agrees with that statement!

Was not aware of all those people being called.
I've never had a problem dealing that way $20 000 was my biggest handover

My old man paid cash a few years back for a new Kenworth.

Maybe they don't look at it to seriously in the country.

You are right about finance income, our finance dept used to make as much a month from finance & insurance commissions as either the new or used car depts!

coonick - Have you ever seen the Centrelink clowns driving new cars off the ships or trains to storage areas, or around the distributors yards??
Or the same types of employees in the dealers moving the vehicles from yard to yard, dealer to dealer, or between dealer and accessory fitment places??
You'd never buy a new vehicle again, if you knew how these clowns drive them!
It's not the first time one of these latter clowns has been booked for doing burnouts with a new vehicle being moved on the road!

... ex-media :) police, demo and hire cars often go faster because they've been driven (run-in) HARD. Pussy-footing a new car is not actually good for it...

If your going to go a thrash someone else's vehicle, you have rocks in your head...... sorry but I don't get it.

So the poor innocent person who with their hard earned money buys this demo that in you words "I have given them heaps, and im sure they havnt been run in properly" may be stuck with a car that may of been damaged by some clown who thinks it funny.

Do you drive your own car that way?

Why?

Not sure if you're referring to me, olcoolone...but I'll offer this: With high tolerance CNC mass-machining etc etc of components, old-school running-methods aren't relevant these days. In fact, they are detrimental to long-term performance of the engine. Hard running early in an engine's life is actuall good for it. Talk to some highway cops (especially older ones before Police Fleet was disbanded) and they wil all have a story about the quickest cars being the ones "delivered" at 230km/h between, say, Sydney and Griffith...

But, we're getting off-topic!

Coonick.

BMW and others use demo and exec vehicles as their way to discount.

Each dealer will have tens of ex demo vehicles with 200km - 300km on the clock

There's a difference between abuse and hard driving. The major problem with all new items of manufactured equipment is that tolerances are very tight, and heat buildup has to be watched in the first few hundred kms. Otherwise, you drive them normally.
The old days when you had to "run-in" pistons rings carefully for the first 1000 miles are long gone.

All modern components don't need "seating" or "run in", but giving them full throttle, and extremely high RPM, the minute you're out of the dealer yard, will possibly lead to seizure until regular working tolerances are established.

Full throttle and high RPM with brand new components will generate high heat loads very rapidly. Fortunately, most new vehicles being driven are limited in length of operation, speed and load, because they're nearly all in suburban areas.

The reason some cars go much faster than others is because their working tolerances are high - thus the reason for the "flogged" cop cars going so well.
How many times have you remarked how brilliantly, and fast, something is running? - right before it blew up! LOL

tik tik BOOM!

Treat your local dealer as you would like him to treat you.
Go & see them first & tell them honestly that you would much rather deal locally & keep locals in jobs, but obviously price will be a factor, they will tell you get some prices that they will either match or beat.
Sometimes it even pays to pay just a little more close to home.