Dissappointing CSR.

I very recently completed the CSR (south to north) for the second time. I must congratulate Track Care WA, whom I believe maintain the southern half of the track, for the excellent work they've done in establishing new toilets and restoring wells. But the top half of the track is a very different matter.

I'm led to believe that no more wells are to be restored (for historical reasons), that they are to be left exactly as they are, decaying and of no real use to anyone. On my recent trip, we found all of the wells listed as being restored to the north of Well 33, unuseable ! Timbers have deteriorated, lids dont fit etc and they are all polluted with dead birds ! Not one of the so called restored wells produced useable water.

When one considers the work put in by Canning and his teams to create these wells, surely we have an obligation to ensure as many as practical are maintained in a fit state. Leaving them in their current condition for 'historical reasons' seems to me to be nothing more than a cop out. In time, even the remains of old timbers and troughs will completely dissappear and there will simply be no tace left behind. Where is the historical value in that !

Although Track Care WA manages it's work with donated funds, a lot of money is being collected by Traditional Land Owners from Permits each year, which could easily cover the cost of maintaining/restoring some of the northen wells. Whilst the money supposidly covers the costs involved in supporting teams of local Rangers, we didn't see any sign of these teams during our 16 day transit.

In National Parks and Reserves where Permits are required, we see improvements to facilities over time, but the money being poured into the pockets of traditional owners from the hundres of permits issued each year for transit of the CSR would appear to provide no benefit at all for the traveller.

I'm certainly not looking for a Road House, but surely mimimal repairs to maintain an existing well in a useable condition, for the future benefit of all, would do no harm.
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Reply By: Zebra400 - Friday, Oct 19, 2012 at 20:16

Friday, Oct 19, 2012 at 20:16
BJ

We did the CSR in Jul/Aug this year (south to north). We agree with you that the bottom half is maintained well. Yes, many of the top half wells are in disrepair. However, we did find a few that had a good water supply, which we used on our travels. Yes, some did have galahs and zebra finches hovering around a few of the wells.

As for maintaining the wells, it is probably more a question as to whether there is still available water below the disused wells. For 4WD'ers, we dont need available in every well, as we are not moving stock overland, so our uses are slightly different to the early settlers.

We did enjoy the remoteness and not seeing too many other vehicles. If we were to do the trip again, we would probably restrict our trip to the bottom half, but the is a personal choice.

As for rangers out on the track, yes, we saw no-one. But that was the same for many other outback tracks we travelled on before & after our CSR trek.

Reading the red book about Canning during our trip made our trip far more memorable. He must have suffered some hard times over many years setting up the CSR. Yes, a great piece of history. Let's hope it (at least) maintains its funding for maintaining the bottom half.

If you like to look at some of pics from our trip, you can view them at: our website. Enjoy!

AnswerID: 496995

Follow Up By: Danna - Friday, Oct 19, 2012 at 21:31

Friday, Oct 19, 2012 at 21:31
Hi everyone
Hmmm ….. but if I remember well from our first trip years ago, the restorations of those wells where done entirely by volunteers and different 4WD clubs. That was done well, well before issuing those expensive permits. On top of everything we were NOT restricted to go to certain places like you are restricted today…. So, do I really miss something here? Where are all that money from hundreds of permits issued every year???….. Definitely not in aboriginal communities!! No one try to keep the history alive these days. No more restorations of wells...
Why for example 4WD club of Australia, when they issuing permits to tagalongs don’t push them to improve their business and put more in than just a money? These people running businesses and making money from CSR, so it should be in their interest, to improve their business.

Cheers Dana
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Follow Up By: Hairy (NT) - Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 12:23

Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 12:23
Gday,

"….. Definitely not in aboriginal communities!!"

What makes you say that?
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Follow Up By: Danna - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 12:45

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 12:45
Hairy (NT)
We have had travelled over many years thru many proud aboriginal communities. We have seen same communities in last few years to deteriorated very badly, they are nothing what they use to be. If we asked people on the ground why is that, they tell you, there is no money.

Cheers Dana
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Reply By: Mick O - Friday, Oct 19, 2012 at 22:05

Friday, Oct 19, 2012 at 22:05
Hi BJ. I think that like a lot of people, you overestimate the number of vehicles that actually travel the route. It might surprise you to know that under a thousand permits were issued last year. 900 vehicles in fact. This is hardly generating buckets of money for the T/O’s along the Canning in fact if you divided it between the four separate title holders it is less than $20K each. The ANFWDA website clearly states what the permit revenues are used for namely;

“ Revenue from these fees funds the administration of the permit system and protection of environmental, cultural and heritage values of the Canning Stock Route by Traditional Owners”.

It's an unfair comparison to compare a National/State park with the 2000 odd km of the Canning. I hardly think that your $12 a night camping fee in a State park is going to result in a lot of infrastructure work. You seem to forget about the key funding stream provided by Governments. It will be interesting to see what suffers now most state Govts are cutting their departmental budgets.

If you check the “plan for country” of the various native title holder groups, you will see that they are doing a lot of work along the Canning including preparing management plans, wildlife surveys and assessments, return to country exercises and ensuring the health of the country surrounding the Canning is supported and maintained in traditional fashion (patch burning to prevent super hot and uncontrolled wild fires, feral animal control etc). They are also looking at development opportunities involving tourism to promote further opportunities for both local people and visitors alike. They are doing this with very limited (and non targeted) funding. They are under no obligation to provide facilities or maintenance along the Canning and the minimal amount generated by Canning permits wouldn’t stretch very far to that end any way.

Well restoration is conducted by volunteers using donations and generally organised by one or two dedicated individuals like Ken Maidment. They are giving of their own time, energy and expertise to undertake these exercises and they are no mean feat logistics wise. The Canning remains one of the last great adventures. Treat it like the adventure and test of endurance that it is. Surely fresh water with a few dead birds is better than no water at all, especially when needed.

BJ, I can only hope you’ll be the first to donate either your money and/or time to any venture to restore further wells or assist Track Care in their endeavours to provide more excellent facilities along the route.

Safe Travels,

Mick
''We knew from the experience of well-known travelers that the
trip would doubtless be attended with much hardship.''
Richard Maurice - 1903

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AnswerID: 496998

Follow Up By: BJ - Friday, Oct 19, 2012 at 22:38

Friday, Oct 19, 2012 at 22:38
Thanks for the info Mick. I have no problem with assisting in funding or time to help restore wells. I have in the past joined with Track Care to rebuild one of the toilets on the CSR and would gladly assist again.

Of course the CSR is an adventure and it's an Australian icon, but leaving wells to deteriorate into an unusable state, is a senseless and pointless exercise. I was hoping that in raising the subject I could generate some interest in changing this situation, but I guess that's just a pipe dream.

BJ.
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Follow Up By: Mick O - Friday, Oct 19, 2012 at 23:01

Friday, Oct 19, 2012 at 23:01
Yes I see your point BJ, if only it was that simple though eh. It is unfortunately a complex issue. I've love to see a few facilities in Rudall as well, particularly around Desert Queen but because of its remoteness and the expense involved, it doesn't rate highly on the National Parks agenda who are generally trying to do as much as possible with a severly restricted budget.

Cheers Mick.
''We knew from the experience of well-known travelers that the
trip would doubtless be attended with much hardship.''
Richard Maurice - 1903

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Follow Up By: Hairy (NT) - Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 12:51

Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 12:51
Gday,
I dont think anyone is suggesting that the level of work or maintenance is equal to that of National parks, just that it would be nice to see some work in return for the money earned.
There is plenty of funding and training programs around.....just need to get them up and running. Maybe someone needs to contact an RTO and suggest it. They might like the idea.
As for surveys and assessments......well.....there goes your money. Thousands spent and nothing on return........

Cheers
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Reply By: Member - Michael P (QLD) - Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 08:00

Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 08:00
AnswerID: 497004

Follow Up By: Member - Michael P (QLD) - Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 08:03

Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 08:03
Forgot to mention, The photo was taken with permission.
Mike.
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Follow Up By: Hairy (NT) - Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 12:31

Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 12:31
Forgot to mention what the photo is about too.....LOL
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Follow Up By: Member - Michael P (QLD) - Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 14:10

Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 14:10
Hairy,

Do you really think the photo needs an explanation??

Mike.
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Follow Up By: Hairy (NT) - Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 14:23

Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 14:23
If its meant to mean more than a photo of people somewhere it probably does?
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Follow Up By: Member - Boo Boo (NSW) - Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 15:30

Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 15:30
Mike

I,m not much of a dirt road traveller, but I do like to read about other peoples experience on this site.

It would be a great help to me if some info was given about the photo..


No, i'm not being funny, it's just that it doesn't tell me anything.

Thanks mate.

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Follow Up By: Mick O - Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 16:22

Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 16:22
Boo Boo,

If I'm not mistaken it's Durba Spring. This would probably be a training run for the younger members of the community learning ranger skills. I say this because there is a mix of elders and youngsters. There is also a member of what is probably the Western Deserts Native Title Group there as well.

They would be checking permits and conducting vehicle/visitor surveys at Durba. The elders would also be returning to country to teach the land, cultural heritage and lore to the younger members.

Micheal has posted the photo in response to BJ's asertion of not seeing any rangers during his time on the Canning.

How close was I Michael?

Cheers Mick





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trip would doubtless be attended with much hardship.''
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Follow Up By: Member - Michael P (QLD) - Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 16:37

Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 16:37
Mick,

Just as I was about to reply!

You as per normal are 99% correct, also there to clean up CSR travellers mess. That's another story though.

Boo Boo, I apologise for my presumptions. The trainees are from Jigalong not quite sure of the Rangers.
Regards Mike,
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Reply By: Life Member - Phil B (WA) - Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 16:37

Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 16:37
Hi all
I’ve been following the post with interest and the ideas put forward.

It’s also interesting to note a number of ideas aren’t followed up with an ‘I’d like to help if I can’. Suggestions are made but it’s always expected that someone else will do it! As Mick O says in reply 2 of 3 above ‘... I can only hope you’ll be the first to donate either your money and/or time ...’

I propose a different point of view. The vehicle pressure and resultant visitor pressure on the CSR is growing exponentially each year - if it continues at that rate the CSR’s delicate desert environment can’t cope; it probably already can't cope.

Some of you may be aware that the track into the Bungle Bungles is very ordinary. Why, because the visitor numbers are almost unmanageable but leaving the track in poor condition keeps the numbers down.

Similarly by not upgrading more CSR wells and by leaving the CSR as it is:
Fewer people will travel the route as a result visitor pressure will be kept down,
Fewer restrictions will be introduced in the future or not as quickly. (restrictions that will be probably be introduced in the future include a ban on camper trailers and a ban on fires to protect animal habitat/dwindling supplies of wood.)
Permit prices won’t increase as quickly,
Fewer areas will be denied access to visitors in the future. (When permits were introduced many areas were prohibited to visitors, then Calvert Range was added to that list, followed later by Carnarvon Range and the Mungkulu Hills.)

If visitor numbers continue to grow rest assured more restrictions will follow.

As Mick O says;
‘The Canning remains one of the last great adventures. Treat it like the adventure and test of endurance that it is. Surely fresh water with a few dead birds is better than no water at all, especially when needed’.

All the best
There is a lot of difference between
‘Human Being’ and ‘Being Human’.





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AnswerID: 497020

Reply By: pop2jocem - Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 21:32

Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 21:32
Wasn't the CSR put in by white fellas to enable cattle from the Kimberly and nearby areas to be driven south. Also from what I have read the drive through the desert rid the cattle of ticks and like pests. This being the CSR's original purpose why should the "traditional owners" be responsible for anything other than making sure uncaring tourist don't degrade the area any more than it already is. If we want the wells maintained that is up to us. If they can make a dollar out of the tourist trade good on them, although I would hope the money goes to improving their lot in life.

Just my thoughts.

Cheers
Pop
AnswerID: 497035

Reply By: Member - hopbush - Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 21:34

Saturday, Oct 20, 2012 at 21:34
Interesting thread…..I found that part of the charm and adventure of travelling the Canning Stock Route is that a majority of the wells are generally original and untouched except by those who constructed them, even if they are in ruins. The wonderful history of the CSR can stir up powerful emotions and these are partially lost and become meaningless with over-restoration, toilets, barbecues and what have you. Sure it’s great to have some wells restored for safety and purely practical purposes, but not so sure about the toilets. Where do we start and where do we stop…..a toilet shed and BBQ at every well?
Organizations like Track Care and 4WD clubs as well as governments and communities (not just the CSR but Australia wide) have to be careful to strike a balance between making these outback tracks safe for the newcomers, and leaving them in their original state, allowing for a greater understanding of the history and also the poignancy of the lives and privations of the pioneers who went before us.
I agree with a point made in a previous thread that the less work done attracts less travelers and the land can hopefully remove or repair any evidence of our visits.
I am not going to get onto the relative merits or otherwise of permits and how the funds should be spent, but I have travelled a majority of the remote tracks in Oz and also entered many of the communities and never once have I been challenged or asked to show a permit. Interestingly, the CEO of a community in WA told me that (amongst other things) there were no rangers in his community; they had all resigned and they were battling to find suitable people who wanted to do the job.
We also must when we travel in these places do our best to understand and respect the extraordinary history and culture of the traditional owners.
I love the isolation of remote area travel and I do most of it solo, but there is nothing more paradoxical than to travel and bush camp on lonely tracks, not see a soul, vehicle or man made structure for days, and suddenly come across a rest area with a shed, table and seats, a tank, a toilet and a fireplace…..very disappointing.
Tony
AnswerID: 497036

Follow Up By: Member - Jim - Friday, Oct 26, 2012 at 19:14

Friday, Oct 26, 2012 at 19:14
Got to agree with you Tony and for that matter Mick O

The trip has got to be treated with respect, and not expect that there will be water and facilities at the end of each day.

I did my trip in 1999 so I have "been there, done that" but at that time there were people who were trying to complete the trip (including the lead times to Wiluna say and back from Billiunya to their start) in the School holidays or such.

There were various people with mechanical repairs pending or waiting for parts. This is part of the experience.

Fees or nay, there should be no expectation regarding increased facilities (although this is disappointing when fees are charged and facilities reduced), this is the last trek on earth where there is no guarantee of seeing someone each day (or for at least a couple of days) and you should plan to not need them for assistance anyway.

Those that think they can "do the Canning and back" in a reduced time period should be discouraged as all they end up doing is spoiling the experience of everyone else.

It is a great trip and one that my family will remember for life.

Cheers,
Jim
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Reply By: Gaynor - Sunday, Nov 04, 2012 at 06:09

Sunday, Nov 04, 2012 at 06:09
Personally I would love to see more Wells restored. All 51 in fact. Reason being, I think the CSR is an incredible route to walk unsupported. I know its overwhelming main interest is 4x4ing, but returning to roots and walking it ..... I like the challenge and I think others would too. We are kinda soft these days.

But I know it is not going to happen, at least not the restoring of all the Wells.
AnswerID: 497873

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