Simpson Desert Traverse

Submitted: Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 03:57
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When my wife and I visit Oz in 2013 from the UK (our first ever visit) we would like to travel westwards from Birdsville through to Alice. While I understand that a number of tracks exist; such as the Shot Line, The Rig Road, QAA and WAA to name just a few, does anyone think that we, as Whingeing Poms of age 62 and 67 should shy away from the idea and continue on sealed roads from Huggy through to Isa and on to Tennant Creek and thence to Alice? Our intention is to hire a 4WD at Townsville in order to make planned visits to Hughenden, Richmond and Isa, then head south to Birdsville and head out west across the Simpson to Alice. Is age a limiting factor out there (we are not yet at the walking frame stage) or should we use a train, bus combi and leave out Birdsville altogether?
Sensible comments appreciated.
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Reply By: Member - Stevo_62 - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 08:12

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 08:12
I reckon you consider heading south from Mt Isa to Boulia and then west on Plenty Hwy to Alice . It will give you a sample of great desert / outback scenery but is easily achievable in a 4WD . The Simpson desert crossing west of Birdsville requires a well prepared 4WD and experienced driver
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Reply By: WBS - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 08:31

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 08:31
I've never crossed the Simpson Desert so I can't comment, however, have a look at these youtube clips for some information.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-P4V5MZHR4

WBS
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Reply By: Member - John and Val - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 08:34

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 08:34
G’day,

The Simpson is a great trip and I’m pleased that you want to get away from the populous coastal areas and experience some of the empty inland. For us the deserts have their very special own charm.

Now – can you…. Should you….

Apart from a very few very experienced travellers, the Simpson is not somewhere to travel alone. A second ( or third or fourth) vehicle can be a great help in keeping the show on the road…… (not that there is a road!)

A 4WD is essential, but much more essential is knowledge and experience in using it, especially in sand. (The whole trip is on sand, dry loose sand.)

Travelling east to west? The sand dunes are formed by wind and they tend to a sawtooth shape with the western slope being more gradual than the eastern. Consequently the drive from west to east is generally easier than east to west. Both are challenging, but travelling west to east is less so.

Can fit people in their 60’s do it? YES!

The precautions – You MUST carry lots of water and lots of fuel. You MUST only travel during the colder months. (Summer temperatures are lethal.) You MUST have some means of communicating if you get into difficulties – UHF radio is good for local use and talking to fellow travellers, HF radio or satellite phone (NOT your usual mobile phone!) for more distant calls.

I’d suggest getting in touch with one of the better tag-along tour leaders and joining a tour group (typically 6 or 8 vehicles). This will give you the support of an experienced and capable leader, communications, the company of like minded people and the vehicle and driving support that will ensure arriving at your destination. Some respected commercial tour leaders contribute to this site – hopefully some will make themselves know – Wayne are you listening?

Cheers

John
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Follow Up By: Member - John and Val - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 08:46

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 08:46
Graham,

I should have mentioned - At the right hand end of the blue bar at the top of this page is a very good search facility. Worth searching on "Simpson" to find a lot of information, especially in members' blogs.

Cheers

John
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Follow Up By: Member - John and Val - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 12:13

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 12:13
Hi Graham,

Some further thoughts: You ask "or should we use a train, bus combi and leave out Birdsville altogether? " Not many trains running in that direction but a bus may be feasible.

But then its not a choice between either sticking to the bitumen via Mt Isa or going west across the Simpson. If you want to see some red sand you could do worse than go south from from Richmond to the Diamantina National Park. . have a look in our 2011 blogs for more info.

Then from there out to Boulia and west on the Plenty Highway to Alice Springs. We have not driven the eastern end of the Plenty but the western end is quite spectacular. The Plenty is a gravel road, can be corrugated in places, but will give you a genuine outback experience.

If you do go off the bitumen you should also carry (and know how to use safely) some recovery gear - a snatch strap and a long handled shovel would be minimal requirements for a Simpson trip, and a compressor and pressure guage too. Not sure whether these would come with a hire vehicle though.

Cheers,

Val.
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Reply By: Member - Stephen L (Clare SA) - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 08:56

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 08:56
Hi Graham

Welcome to the best site for the questions and answers about our great country.

The Simpson Desert is a great drive and attracts drivers from all over Australia and the world to experience the vast open spaces and true four wheel driving at its best. Like any trip, it will be as easy or hard on how prepared you are and if you are generally going to take advise on how to drive it.

The key to a successful crossing is tyre pressure and get this wrong and you will have trouble well fore you enter the desert proper. High tyre pressures and you will get bogged on every dune and cut the track up, so start at 14 psi and go lower if you are still having problems. A sand safety flag is a must, as well as a UHF Radio on channel 10 for a crossing.

From Birdsville you have only 1 track to follow, the QAA all the way out west until it is time to head south on the K1 Line. After traveling the K1 for around 20 kilometres, you will then have 2 options, firstly to continue south on the KI for some distance until you get to the intersection on the Rig Road, or take the fun track and head further west again on the French Line. Either way you will want to visit Poeppel Corner, the meeting point of 2 Australian State and 1 Territory, Queesnland, South Australia and the Northern Territory.



If you want to continue on the French Line, your next choice of track will them be around another 40 kilometres west, where you should visit the Knolls. From here you can head further south to take either the WAA on further south out on the Rig Road. It will be all great fun but another must visit site should be the Lone Gum. As you zig zag you way through the desert, you will finally come out at Wonga Junction and the end of the true sand dunes, even though you will still be passing over a few as you are heading to Purnie Bore, but these are no problems at all after crossing the 1100 dunes to get to this point. It is at this point where you will inflate your tyres again as you make you way over the gibber planes and arrive at Dalhousie for your most welcome warm swim in the 37 degrees hot springs. Here you will spend hours just relaxing in a true desert oasis.



Either way, do your homework, listen to others that have driven the Simpson and it is an easy drive proving that it is not wet, then it is a completely different story......




Enjoy your trip and you will see why Australia is the best country in the world.



Cheers


Stephen

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Follow Up By: Danna - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 16:32

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 16:32
G’day Stephen
I wouldn’t send any one in hired vehicle to drive Rig Road especially not from East to West (Birdsville to Mt. Dare). From West to east road is little bit less demanding, but still not for novices.
We driven Rig Road from East to West this year and we didn’t met anyone for almost one week, and I mean even no one calling on 80 channel radio and having all the time full scanner on. I was calling out of high dunes and on body there.
Going Rig Road you must have highly modified very strong vehicle,
plenty of spare tyres, water and food and real good experience 4WDriving. If you do not have one of those, it may cost you lots and lots of money to be recovered. Rig Road is these days actually in such condition, that people from Mt. Dare don’t advice travellers to drive that way.
Cheers Dana
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Follow Up By: Member - Stephen L (Clare SA) - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 21:09

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 21:09
Hi Dana

We have driven the Simpson Desert countless times over the years and not hearing other people talking on the radio can be quite common, when in fact there could be other groups only a couple of hours either in front or behind you. As for the 80 channels, not every one has the new radios yet, so there will be a very high chance that you will hear only the 40 main channels, while channel 10 is the requested channel for a Simpson crossing.

As for saying that your vehicle must be highly modified, that is not correct and false information. I will all come down to driver experience and how you drive that vehicle, and if you give me any standard four wheel drive that the hire companies use, I could get from one side to the other without any problems, with the exception of mechanical which can happen to any vehicle. You will find that your best friend every time is low tyre pressure, and not speed.



Cheers




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Follow Up By: Danna - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 23:53

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 23:53
Hi Stephen,
have you been very recently on the Rig Road? I wouldn't thing so, that's why you can make all these claims about vehicles, preparations and traffic. There are not only a sand ridges higher than the Big Red, but broken clay base that is virtual not drivable, so you have to bush-bash up to dunes with high sand blown tops.
As I mentioned, there is a reason why people in Mt. Dare don't recommend people to go that way!


Dana
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Follow Up By: Member - Stephen L (Clare SA) - Monday, Oct 22, 2012 at 08:36

Monday, Oct 22, 2012 at 08:36
Hi Dana

No to be honest, we have not driven the full length of the rig Road for a few years, but still stick with my claims, it all comes down to driver experience.

Any of the Simpson tracks are all very easy to drive in a standard vehicle, so it sounds like this was your first ever Simpson trip.

If you would have read any of my blogs, I am no stranger to remote travel and in 2006 did a complete off road venture.....no tracks what so ever to follow for nearly 400 kilometres through the very heart of the Simpson Desert in a stock standard 1998 Mitsubish Pajero, well not stock standard, I had new Shock absorberts and Black Widow Draws fitted, not the highly modified vehicle that you make out is required for the easy Simpson tracks........







Yes any Simpson track can be a challenge very early in the season, but still easy compared to a true trackless challenge.



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Follow Up By: Danna - Monday, Oct 22, 2012 at 10:05

Monday, Oct 22, 2012 at 10:05
Stephen

Since few trips to Simpson Desert before 2009, that area changed especially after rain we had as you may know. I wouldn't enter this reply, if I wouldn't know for sure what I'm talking about. We bush-bash and remote drive for last 11years, and I'm not claiming we have seen it and done it all, but I stand behind advice of Mt. Dare people.

Dana
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Follow Up By: Grizzle - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2012 at 08:33

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2012 at 08:33
I think you're right Stephen. Tyre pressures and speed are paramount. You don't need a highly modified vehicle. Fuel, water and food are obvious essentials. Preparation also is important.

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Reply By: Member - Outback Gazz - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 09:45

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 09:45
G'day Graham

On one of my many trips across the Simpson I rescued a German couple who were, let's say "stuck" on one of the sand hills for a couple days. NO shovel - No drop in tyre pressure - NO shelter and worst of all NO idea. The desert is no place for inexperienced four wheel drivers in an ill prepared vehicle. If you take the good advice of the above replies and have the skills then the Simpson crossing can not only be quite easy but very enjoyable in many many ways. I would highly recommend travelling with another vehicle ( or tag along tour ) and as Stephen said - if it rains then you could be in all sorts of trouble.

Enjoy your time in this big brown land - whatever route you choose !

Happy Travelling

Gazz
AnswerID: 497057

Reply By: Candace S. - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 11:36

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 11:36
I'm also hoping some of the tag-a-long tour leaders on the forum will pipe up...I'd love to cross the Simpson but I'm well aware it isn't something to tackle on my own!
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Follow Up By: Member - Outback Gazz - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 19:50

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 19:50
Howdy Candace S

I have been running tag a long tours across the Simpson and other areas of central Australia for over ten years now and unfortunately will be winding the trips down because of too many rules, regulations and RIDICULOUS amounts of insurance required to do them. There are still a few good operators doing the desert - all you have to do some research on the net and you will find them.

The best part about tag alongs ( apart from someone else organising things ) is the friendships you make with complete strangers - some of them life long !

Once you have done it you will want to do it again !


Happy Travelling

Gazz
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Reply By: rumpig - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 11:43

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 11:43
as has been said already, age has nothing to do with being able to cross the desert, 4wding experience is what is needed.
when it comes to advice....don't just take advice from someone who has crossed the desert in the last 2 years and says how easy the trip was, the last 2 years have been pretty easy going at times due to lots of rain, and when the desert dries out the sand becomes a much different beast to tame, though the rain can also cause it become hard to cross aswell (look at pics above)
with that said... it's all about tyre pressures in the end, running the right pressures can be the differance between an enjoyable trip and a trip you might wish you never had taken to begin with.
if you have no real experience of 4wding on sand then i would reccomend you give this trip a miss, it is not something an inexperienced 4wder should attempt on their own.

AnswerID: 497068

Reply By: Danna - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 13:25

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 13:25
Hi Graham,
You should consider important think. Not every vehicle hire company let you travel even with best of 4WD everywhere in Australia. Most of them have actually specific restrictions (like Simpson, Canning, Gunbarrel and so, so on). If you ignore to follow these, and they find out, you are up to hefty finds. Vehicle may have GPS tracker and hire company doesn’t have to disclose it by telling you. The disclose may be concealed somewhere in fine print on a contract you sign. Make sure, you select the one, who let you go where you want to go.
Cheers Dana
AnswerID: 497071

Reply By: Member - Trouper (NSW) - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 18:12

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 18:12
Grahame, If you have no 4wd/desert travel experience Please do not concider this trip accross the Simpson. To add to your troubles hiring a 4WD is not an option as you will need to carry extra fuel (maybe 40/60litres) depending on the vehicle. not to mention being self sufficient with food, water, spare parts, air cmpressor, tools, extra wheel & tyre,HF Radio or satphone. Mate the list of things you will need are endless.........Dont do it.

Jeff
AnswerID: 497082

Reply By: Teraa - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 21:39

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 21:39
If all over whelms you could look up Outback Spirit Tours they do tours in the areas you mention. They are great people and will look after you. Time and distance can be overwhelming for some people it seems Australia as grand as we are you will think some days when will it end. Also be wary of hire anything and if they will cover you off road. Some do just takes a little research and don't let your age be a barrier.
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Reply By: Graham C11 - Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 22:10

Sunday, Oct 21, 2012 at 22:10
Hello,
Our thanks to Steve_62, WBS, John and Vale, Stephen L (Clare SA),Outback Gazz, Candace S, Rumpig, Danna and Trouper (NSW) for their very useful comments and guides. A very important point that we had (stupidly) ignored so far is that we will not be able to take a hire vehicle on to these tracks. Possibly our only chance of a Simpson adventure is to join a group as passengers and to share the driving (we are not affluent enough to buy our own vehicle and resell); or avoid Birdsville and go the long way round from Isa on sealed roads. Further, our 4WD experience is limited (have done a bit as passengers in the western Sahara - south east Morocco and driven remote areas in Scotland) but that's about it. Not many Desert regions in and around London!!
Once again our thanks to all who have replied. We are looking forward hugely to our visit in 2013...so much to see and do.
Kindest regards
The Whingeing Poms
Graham and Colleen
AnswerID: 497103

Reply By: Member - PJR (NSW) - Monday, Oct 22, 2012 at 08:50

Monday, Oct 22, 2012 at 08:50
Graham

Get in touch with this mob and ask them what they require as a minimum and see if you two are up for it. It's nothing like a sunday drive.

Phil
AnswerID: 497123

Follow Up By: Member - PJR (NSW) - Monday, Oct 22, 2012 at 08:51

Monday, Oct 22, 2012 at 08:51
Forgot the link.Tag along tour mob

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Reply By: homevale - Monday, Oct 22, 2012 at 20:51

Monday, Oct 22, 2012 at 20:51
You can live in Australia all your life and to travel in areas like the Simpson Desert takes a great deal of planning, preparation and money. If you hire a 4WD you will not be provided with even the basics, such as tools and extra jerry cans for water. To buy all this equipment will cost you a lot of money and then when you return the 4WD what will do with it. Go ahead and hire the 4WD and try for something a little less ambitious; there are plenty of other roads that you could safely travel and still experience the remoteness of the Australian Outback. Most of the main outback tracks are fairly busy from May through to September so help is usually not far away, but this should not be an excuse to be unprepared.

We have encountered European travellers and so have my parents and friends, that have set out into areas they were completing unprepared for. It has only been the assistance rendered by passing travellers that helped them complete their journey.

It is very hard to appreciate just how demanding travelling in outback Australia can be both on people and vehicles, until you see it for yourself.

Don't let this stop you form pursuing your dreams, just modify them a bit!
AnswerID: 497174

Follow Up By: Pushy - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2012 at 09:18

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2012 at 09:18
I agree don't totally give up the trip, just delete the Simpson Desert section. 90% of Australians don't have the experience or the vehicle to do the trip. With a basic hire 4wd you can still do the Plenty Hwy to the north or go to Birdsville and do a trip out to Big Red and Eyre Ck.

Then go down the Birdsville Track and up the Oodnadatta Track having a look along the way by exploring the side tracks. Book a flight at William Creek and see Lake Eyre.

But just as a warning have a look at the Coroners report on a German tourist would died on the road out to Halligan Bay on the Lake Eyre Yacht Club Website.

Pushy
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Reply By: prado-wolf - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2012 at 11:27

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2012 at 11:27
Hi Graham,

i take the risk of being shot down in flames here but what the hell.

I did the Simpson twice so far and no. 3 crossing is booked in for next June so i might be able to give you some comments to consider.

I do not disagree with all the people here that the Simpson is still a challenge but by far not the most difficult terrain and i for sure know one person on this forum that believes that the lighter the vehicle the better your chances are getting unharmed across.

I tell you what i did the first time and that might be an option for you too so that you can enjoy the fun of going up and down 1100 times.

I drove with my wife to Birdsville , booked into the pub and was just dreaming to go to Big Red and have a go at it to see how i would do in the sand but in the morning when i just got ready i saw the guy from the Bar and just asked him , hey by chance have you heard about anyone going to cross the Simpson in the next couple of days and his answer was there is a group in the bar right now and he introduced us to them.
After a few min talk they said ok , get ready in 1 hour and you can join us.

1 hour was little time but we did it , and we met a fantastic group of people and had a ball with them all the way to Alice Springs. Safety in numbers certainly gave me a good feeling so may be try that , you never know who you will meet.

Britz rentals these days offer a lot more items for rental as far as i know and the only thing you might have to consider is the insurance issue for rental cars , i doubt you would be covered in the Simpson but i could be wrong so just ask.

Happy holidays and enjoy the Simpson it is a great place.
AnswerID: 497203

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