Cape York trip report

Submitted: Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 11:13
ThreadID: 17104 Views:6611 Replies:13 FollowUps:5
This Thread has been Archived
A few people have asked me to put some notes down about our trip to Cape York.
So at the risk of boring you all.....here goes:

We left Kadina at about 5pm on Friday 17/9. Drove northwards and camped beside the road in a rest area about 10klm south of Parachilna. On saturday morning we packed the trailer and headed for Innaminka. Arrived late in the afternoon, but no sign of the other 2 families who had arranged to meet us there. They (the Reids and the Bradfords, from Yass, NSW) had left home on Friday morning and camped at Ivanhoe on Friday night.
We set up camp at the Innaminka town common and after tea I went over to the pub to see if they'd come in yet. A few beers later, they turned up about 9pm after having taken a "short cut" up the Bore Track!!
Next day, we drove through to Longreach via Windorah and Stonehenge, stayed in caravan park for 2 nights. Visited the School of the Air and the Qantas museum (went on a tour of the 747). Others went to Hall of Fame, but we'd been there twice before.....
Our next camp was in the bush, beside a track near Lyndhurst Station, close to The Lynd Junction, via Hughenden. There was a small chopper buzzing about when we were setting up camp and he must have been mustering stock, as an empty road train came rattling through during the evening and made his presence known for a short while as he manouvered around on the nearby property. The sound of nervous cattle could be heard in the distance most of the night.
On to Cairns, via Atherton the next day......this was the only time we saw any rain during the whole 4 week trip. However, by the time we'd decended the range into Cairns, there was no sign of any rain.
We had 2 nights in Cairns and went on the train trip to Karumba and back on the Skyrail. The first minor mechanical glitch occurred at Cairns, with Lance's battery (2.7 Prado petrol) needing to be replaced. The mobile battery bloke was VERY quick and obliged us further by doing a free test on the batteries in Martin's and my Patrols.
Whilst on the subject of vehicles, it might be timely to say that Martin's 3.0L Patrol performed flawlessly during the whole trip. The only dramas he had was with the suspension on his TrakShak trailer; he lost a bolt off the bottom mount of one of his shockies and the safety chain turned out to be one link too long and it allowed the coil spring to partially fall out.
My Patrol had a few problems with it's aftermarket PWR radiator. It's a great piece of kit, but I don't think the designer/s ever considered Cape York's infamous corrogations when they worked out how tough the bottom mounting lugs needed to be. I also sufferred a broken bracket on my aftermarket 3" exhaust system.
The Prado had a weird thing happen to both of it's rear shockers......Both of them broke the stone guard that protects the piston from being pelted with stones. At Seisa, we had to get 2 new OME units flown in (great service). The shockers still seemed to be functioning okay......well they were until we took them off anyway....cos we had to use vice grips on the pistons in order to be able to get the top mounting nuts off!!
Lance's Cameron Camper had a real drama in Lakefield NP......the 4 lugs that were welded onto the underside of the bed/camper unit came unstuck and the top was literally "sitting" on top of the box trailer. Luckily, Martin (aka "Pud") had brought his Honda 10i generator and an electric hammer drill along. We were able to dismantle the camper unit and drill 6 holes through it and the trailer and secure the 2 units back together again.
Now....back to Cairns: Our last night there was a bit stressful, but we can laugh about it now.........Our youngest lad, Zak, had had a long day and by 9pm he was being a proper little shyte!!! He was grizzly and NEEDED to go to bed. I was just getting changed and had to go to the men's etc before I could lay down with him to pacify. As I was going to the loo, I heard an old woman's voice from a caravan over the track say "kill that kid". I ignored it and went about my "business" (so to speak). By the time I got back a few minutes later, the old duck had emerged from the van and was yelling almost uncontrollably. Her old man then came out in his jocks and backed her up, at the same time suggesting to her that she should go back into their van. I responded by asking them for their advice about what they would like me to do........she said "kill him". Nice people, eh? We were disappointed that they had SA number plates. Bear in mind it was only 9pm and once they'd retreated, I was able to lay down with Zak......his batteries went flat by 9.15.
Back to the trip notes......
We left Cairns at 8.00am next day with a blst of the air horns for the neighbours benefit. Northwards to Port Douglas (where you just about "smell" the money!!!) and then through to Daintree, Cape Trib', up the Bloomfield Track and set up camp on the banks of a river just south of Cooktown.
Next day we went into Cooktown and bought more supplies and had a look around; dropped trailers off at the bottom of Grassy Hill, before going up it to take in the vista. As usual it was as windy as blazers up there.
We continued on towards Lakefield NP. Road conditions here were the worst we'd encountered to that point and contributed to the broken welds on Lance's camper.
We camped in one of the camping areas provided (the sign said "Reserved for Commercial Operators") at North kennedy River.
Onwards and Upwards, as they say.......we left Lakefield and got onto the Cape York road the next day. Made it into Weipa that afternoon and spent 2 nights there. I got the bracket for my exhaust re-welded there and we went and saw the giant Haul Packs carting their spoil for processing. These articlated monsters carry 150 tonnes at a time!!!
From Weipa we went via Batavia Downs to get back onto the North/South road. We had agreed to go up via the Old Telegraph Track......however, "Houston, we have a problem".....as they say.
Due to Zak being in the process of being toilet trained, we often ended up being tail end charlie and sometimes several klicks behind the others. As they proceeded northwards, they missed the turn off & took the corrogated by-pass track. When we arrived at the turn off, we took the OTT and got to Palm Creek with no sign of the others. Repeated attempts to get them on the UHF proved fruitless. I could not have imagined them passing through Palm Creek without waiting for us; but then again, maybe they thought nothing of the somewhat rutted crossing and simply went through it and onwards. Part of me was leaning towards them having missed the turn-off, the other part of me said, I'd better stop mucking around and keep going up the OTT and try to catch them. Eventually, the radio faintly crackled into life and we had to wait for them to catch up to us on the OTT.
The Dulhunty River was the campsite that night. Those of you who know me, know that I'm a 2 pot screamer these days. However, the small water hole and cool running waters of the Dulhunty were just TOO inviting and I succumbed to the invitation from Pud and Lance to hop into this small pool, with stubby in hand. It was difficult to tell whether there was more beer flowing than water, but after about about 8 stubblies of "super" (I usually only drink "unleaded") I was ready to just sleep in the water hole!!!
Next day we drove to have a look at just how bad Gunshot Creek approaches had actually become.......all the horror stories were true and there was no way any of us was prepared to risk our rigs; so we went back southwards and took the Heathlands Park by-pass (very corrogated). This brought us back onto the OTT just north of Gunshot Creek and in hindsight, we should not have bothered to go all the way to have a look at the creek, as we could have more easily driven in from the other direction.
We had also heard too many stories about the nothern part of the OTT to risk taking that route, so opted for the By-Pass track to the Toyota-powered ferry over the Jardine River. You'd reckon that at $99-00 a pop to cross on the ferry, they'd be able to save up a few bucks and get the donk fixed. But no, You and I dear fellow taxpayer, are providing Troopies-On-Demand at the top end.... so it is easier for them to put in a requisition for a couple of new tojos (one on the south bank/one on the north bank) and they pull the ferry back and forward with a great deal of wheel spin, dust and fanfair!!!
The sealed roads leading into Bamaga were a welcome sight. A word to the wise might be in order at this point too......As you head northwards towards Bamaga, there is a prominent sign post advising that Bamaga is Staright ahead (on what appears to be a goat track.....and it IS!), whilst the main track curves around to the left and is marked "INJINOO". Please do yourself a favour and stay on the main track and go via "Injinoo".....
We had 4 nights at Loyalty Beach Camp Ground. The first day there 2 of the 3 vehicles drove up to the TIP. Lance led the way in the Prado......he hit a huge bump that sent his 80 litre Waeco fridge flying through the air (it was DOA and meant that his beer got hot and he had to go back a different way to the rest of us so that he could get it fixed in Cairns). We took the Reid's 2 daughters with us to the TIP but Pud's wife, Barb, was crook and ended up in hospital for 24 hours. She got out the next day and the 4 of them did the walk by themselves.
We took photos of us all at the sign-post up there and walked along Frangipany Beach for a bit. Went and had a look at Somerset Beach too. There was a large amount of rubbish left there by previous campers.....disgusting.
It was whilst in Seisa that I had to get my flash new aluminium radiator welded up. I always use Techtalloy 90+ coolant and had been topping the radiator up with plain water during the period when it was leaking, as I am aware you must never mix different brands. Once the radiator was fixed I asked the mechanic and boss there whether they had any of this coolant. The bloke said......" we've usually got 2 types of coolant; red and green....but we haven't got any at all at the moment". I nearly fell over laughing....."red or green"....WHAT THE?????
I still had about 4 litres of coolant left that I'd brought with me and we'd tried to save as much as we could when we removed the radiator at the camp ground. So we used what we had and filled the rest with water. It got me back home with no more worries and I've emptied and re-filled the system.
We left Seisa/Bamaga on 3/10 and again took the by-pass track. When we got to the junction where the OTT joins the by-pass track, we turned northwards and headed up the OTT to check out FruitBat Falls and Twin/Elliot Falls.
A few of us paddled in Fruitbat Falls, but we moved on and had lunch and a great swim at Twin Falls......we were there for about 2 hours. Great Spot!! There was a small creek crossing we had to go through to get to these falls. Not being too sure how deep it was going to be, we (ie: the blokes) delegated 2 of the ladies to hoist their shorts up and wade through. They made a lovely sight; holding hands and walking "wheel-track-apart". There was a bit of a hole in the middle and we negotiated the water hazard with all the more confidence, knowing that our better-halves had risked life and limb for us...hahaha
The camp grounds at Twin Falls were in the process of being updated.
We headed southwards for Moreton Telegraph Station as our next overnight stop.
Next day we drove to Musgrave where we fuelled up and said good bye to Lance, Ros and their 2 kids.....they headed to Cairns and we went westwards to Pormpuraaw on the Gulf Of Carpentaria. This wasn't the way we had planned to go, but the petrol-pump attendant assured us it would be a better road than the one we had planned to take, which was 20 klicks further south. We beach camped at this aboriginal settlement near the mouth of the Minkin River. Fish abounded, but we didn't catch any.
Next day it was southwards across some very interesting country.......large amounts of bulldust and station tracks heading in all directions. We were heading for Kowanyama and had to cross the Mitchell River. Had lunch at Kowanyama before continuing onwards to Karumba. Had a great seafood meal there that night and lucky we did too; that restaurant was closed for the season the next day. The sandflies were relentless in their attacks on us all and we still have the sores on our legs to prove it!! Apparently taking vitamin B before going to these regions has a beneficial effect for some people. Otherwise, metholated spirits on the sores is also recommended; dries them out quickly; vinegar is also suggested.
We had 2 nights there before going through Normanton enroute to Lawn Hill.
We stayed at Adele's Grove for 2 nights. The kids had a ball in the swimming hole and we did the obligatory canoe trip up the gorge. This is a great spot, but I believe we probably visited a little too late in the season as it was simply too bloody hot and the flies were a pain in the arze.
Heavily corrogated road was the order of the day from there to Mt Isa......we had to be there to vote on the saturday. Mt Isa was a one night stand for us. Next morning it was off to Birdsville and we arrived there late on 10/10 to be greeted by Ian at the C/Park. Birdsville Hotel still has the best tucker for hundreds of klicks and we had tea there 2 nights in a row!!
Of course a trip to Birdsville is not complete without "doing" BIG RED. We went there about 9am before it got too hot. Went down the western side and back up, just to prove to Ruth that Nissan's can really do a few things that Toyotas can...LOL We also went out and saw the Dingo Caves and the Waddi trees north of the township.
The Birdsville Track was beckoning us so we headed off ever southwards, seeking relief from the heat and flies. Along the way we came across a new house being moved in two halves. Tim, the owner of the house moving business, is known to me through Pesty (he used to live opposite Pesty in Blythe). I chatted to him on the radio for a few minutes and he told us there was a search and rescue going on at Mungerannie (spell???). By the time we got there, the 2 missing persons from the downed ultralight had been found safe and well.
Before we left on this trip Pesty had implored us to stay at Clayton's Bore, where he and Glenda had skinny-dipped on their stay there a few months earlier.
We pulled up there in mid afternoon. It was bloody hot and we set up a tarp as shelter over the tank as we filled it with the refeshing bore water. Stayed there with nibbles and drinks until the sun went down and then we cooked tea.
The morning came too quickly and the flies were there to greet us. Packing up camp would have looked good on video........we were all going about our respective roles with T-shirts or Tea Towels etc over our heads in an effort to limit the attacks.
We drove the 50 odd klicks into Maree for fuel and drinks etc and then made our way to Parachilna where we bade farewell to Martin, Barb, Sarah and Sophie as they turned towards the east and headed to Broken Hill and then on to Yass the following day.
We called in at Pt Augusta for Subway.....a bit of rain along the way to welcome us back home.
Back Expand Un-Read 0 Moderator

Reply By: Member - 'Lucy' - Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 11:26

Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 11:26
Top trip Mr. Roach
AnswerID: 80525

Reply By: Bros - Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 11:33

Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 11:33
Roachie,
Good to see you back relatively unscathed. A top trip and not at all boring to read.
Maybe now we can get some decent Friday Funnies, the impersonators have only done a FAIR job.
Cheers,
Bros.
Work is the curse of the down and out bludger.

Lifetime Member
My Profile  Send Message

AnswerID: 80527

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 14:53

Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 14:53
G'day mate,
Hopefully my email box at work will be full of suitable material for inclusion in the Phriday Phunnies.....glad you enjoyed the trip report; I hate reading about other peoples' trips and looking at their photos, cos it just makes me green with envy!!!
Cya
0
FollowupID: 339842

Reply By: Member - Ruth D (QLD) - Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 12:59

Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 12:59
Good report Roachie. Poor little Zac - still laughing about the "olds" in the caravan park - Zac is so gorgeous how could anyone say that about him.
AnswerID: 80540

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 14:59

Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 14:59
G'day Ruth,
Our darling "angel" Zak certainly does have his moments!!!!LOLOL
However, the fact that we were no where near the usual "curfew" hour of 10pm caught us a bit off guard. I also should have mentioned that the previous night we had had to "suffer" through them playing loudish classical music beyond the 10pm cut-off.
I'll catch you later,,,,,
0
FollowupID: 339843

Follow Up By: Eric from Cape York Connections - Monday, Oct 18, 2004 at 07:01

Monday, Oct 18, 2004 at 07:01
Roachie good report I will have to get up that way next year again BUGGER.
Our tag alongs leave from glengarg van park at port douglas .
We have our meet and greet at the BBQ shed and this year there were a group of your senior citizens sitting in there pis-sed to the eye balls.
Hassiling every one giving the german tourists a hard time and told one dutch fellow he should learn english better before he came here.
They partyed on till about 11pm and were very loud.
Next morning they were back in the shed and cooking breaky when I heard one complain about a crying kid that kept them up half the night.

I sujested that It was all the noise from the bbq shed that kept the kid awake.
The lady said that my group the tag along wasnt that loud she missed the point comletely.

All the best
Eric
0
FollowupID: 339888

Reply By: Mad Dog (Victoria) - Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 18:25

Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 18:25
Cool report Roachie..thanks for the entertainment.
AnswerID: 80557

Reply By: navaraman - Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 19:11

Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 19:11
Great report Roachie. Apart form the thought of Pesty skinny dipping, put me off my tea that part.
AnswerID: 80563

Reply By: Big Kidz (Andrew & Jen) - Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 20:40

Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 20:40
Sounds like a good trip Roachie - and I read every word of it.

I still haven't got around to putting finger to keyboard to do our trip report and report on the things that went wrong for us. Will get around to it tonight maybe....

Andrew
AnswerID: 80580

Reply By: Richard - Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 20:56

Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 20:56
Roachie,

Great trip report. Will be doing the cape sometime in the future. Is it worth dragging a trailer through or should you park it and pick it up on the way back?
AnswerID: 80588

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 21:14

Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 21:14
Richard,
No worries with trailers as long as they are built tough enough to withstand the corrogations. They are a restricting factor on the northern section of the OTT as there is one creek crossing with longitudinal logs (Cypress or Crystal Creek?) which has a tight 90 degree approach and a trailer apparently needs to be unhooked and jockeyed around into position. That was just one of the reasons we didn't do the northern section......crossing the Jardine River was the other main reason; we were advised that it is never less than a metre deep and I wasn't prepared to risk my rig or the lives of any of us just prove I was macho enough to "do it".....
0
FollowupID: 339871

Reply By: Allan Mac (VIC) - Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 21:12

Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 21:12
Great read Roachie. Sounds like you had a ball. Makes it all worth while dont it!!
AnswerID: 80591

Reply By: Willem - Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 21:26

Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 21:26
Ahhhh Roachie, Annette and kids

Good to have you back safely and a very good trip report at that.
No doubt after a rest you will be up to your old tricks on the forum :o)

Yes that thing about Pesty puts me off as well but Claytons is a good place to be...the flies think so anyway!!

Uncle and I survived our desert trip. I am waiting with bated breath for Andrew's trip report as he got me into a lot of trouble when we met up in the Flinders.

Will catch up with you sometime.
AnswerID: 80598

Reply By: Des Lexic - Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 21:48

Sunday, Oct 17, 2004 at 21:48
Good trip report Roachie, however I wonder at it's accuracy considering the version of the ascent of Big Red that I heard was different from yours. I believe the Chicken Run was mentioned. LOL
AnswerID: 80605

Follow Up By: Member - Ruth D (QLD) - Monday, Oct 18, 2004 at 08:17

Monday, Oct 18, 2004 at 08:17
Jeepers, DL, I forgot about that when I patted him on the back for his trip report. Yes, there are witnesses to the fact that Roachie took the chicken run - gosh, DL you've got a mind like a steel trap - a sewer trap at that. Thanks for that reminder. Some excuse he had about not needing to prove anything (bit like his excuse for not doing the Jardine River). LOL. Very nice to meet him at last - although we had met before (two times) but it was Annette's gorgeous eyes I remember. LOL
0
FollowupID: 339891

Reply By: Eric from Cape York Connections - Monday, Oct 18, 2004 at 07:05

Monday, Oct 18, 2004 at 07:05
Roachie good report we take trailers on the North end of the track and yes only good quality ones.
That creek is called cypress.

All the best
Eric

AnswerID: 80636

Reply By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Monday, Oct 18, 2004 at 09:20

Monday, Oct 18, 2004 at 09:20
Excellent report mate, nice people out there isn't there (screaming abusive woman). Scary thing is there the ones that give you the finger because your sticking to the speed limit!

Makes me really keen on our cape trip next year. Can't wait.

Thanks for spending time on the report!

Cheers

Chris.
AnswerID: 80650

Reply By: Patrol22 (Queanbeyan - Monday, Oct 18, 2004 at 13:16

Monday, Oct 18, 2004 at 13:16
Sounds like a great trip Roachie thanks for the report. One comment though - that was a big train trip from Cairns to Karumba - should that have read Cairns to Kuranda???
AnswerID: 80689

Sponsored Links

Popular Products (9)