Trip Itenery to Simson desert

Submitted: Saturday, Jul 29, 2006 at 20:46
ThreadID: 36271 Views:3874 Replies:7 FollowUps:10
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Hi all,

We are heading off from Melbourne in the last few days of Aug through to around 1st Oct, up to Alice and back, should be almost 5 weeks in total.

This is our first long trip and would appreciate any advice on the itenery.
Melbourne, Flinders ranges, marree, coober pedy, Uluru, Kings Canyon, mereenie loop rd, west Madconnell ranges,back to Alice, east of alice to trephina gorge and the area.
Now the real question is getting to Birdsville ....?
We are currently on our own (have our 8yr daughter).

Would you do the Simpson alone from Dalhousie to Birdsville ???
or go up on the Plenty Hwy??????

It would be great to meet up with others with kids or similar situation doing this around the same time, i reckon around mid September that leaves us another 2 wks home through Innamincka,etc.

Maybe just to to Dalhousie and hook up with others going across the Simpson to Birdsville.

Driving Prado '05 grande
twin batteries
running goodyear MTR's

and try and make sure I got all the rest of the gear from water (60litrs)
through to tools, tent, spares, etc.(taking only 1 spare..???ATR cooper)

Is there anything special to take for this trip.

All feedback would be appreciated greatly.

thanks

John

!MPG:3!
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Reply By: Member - Stephen L (SA) - Saturday, Jul 29, 2006 at 21:44

Saturday, Jul 29, 2006 at 21:44
Hi John
Firstly for safety sake, I would not travel the Simpson Solo, even though I have travelled it many times myself. Mid September you will have mid to high 30's º C temperatures, so I would take more than 60 litres of water. I would work on 100 lites of water, as you will be surprised how quick you will uses it for cooking, washing, drinking et. If you were at Dalhousie, you should find someone that will be going across to Birdsville. Make sure you drop your tyre pressures to about 20 psi. Depending which way you will be going, either the French Line or the Rig Road, you could use as little as 80 litres of diesel or up to about 120 litres.If petrol, you will uses more. This will all depend on your route and how soft the sand is then. Enjoy your trip, you will want to return to the Simpson again.

Best Regards

Stephen
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AnswerID: 186024

Follow Up By: Member - John V (VIC) - Tuesday, Aug 01, 2006 at 23:10

Tuesday, Aug 01, 2006 at 23:10
Stephen

thanks for your advice.
the Prado has 180 litre fuel tank standard.
but may have to work on a little more water as per your suggestion.
p.s. great sunset pic

cheers

John
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FollowupID: 443679

Follow Up By: Member - Stephen L (SA) - Wednesday, Aug 02, 2006 at 08:18

Wednesday, Aug 02, 2006 at 08:18
Hi John,
Which ever way you travel across the Simpson for the first time, it is always a great trip.
If you have not driven in soft sand, you will be an expert by the time you have completed the desert crossing. Like I said before, to make the trip easier for you and your vehicle, make sure that you do drop your tyre pressures. If the sand is soft and you have a few warm days, drop your pressures even lower. Under bad conditions, you could even start at 14psi and lower if the need be. You will not do any damage to your tyres, as you will only be travelling at slow speeds (approx 30kph in the good sections) Take your time and you will have a ball.

Cheers
Stephen
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FollowupID: 443711

Reply By: Footloose - Saturday, Jul 29, 2006 at 22:13

Saturday, Jul 29, 2006 at 22:13
John, I first crossed the Simpson solo in the early 80's. My gut reaction is not to attempt it solo, especially with a small child (I was solo solo ). They dehydrate quickly and as mentioned you could have days of real heat.
You would have to carry a fair bit of "just in case" gear if by yourselves. The extra weight makes it even harder.
You haven't mentioned contingency plans. What comms gear do you have ? epirb? HF and UHF ? Sand flags, recovery points ?
The trip MIGHT be an easy drive, no doubt you will meet fellow travellers and look after each other, get to the pub at Birdsville and think what a breeze it was. Thats assuming that everything goes well.
OR it could be something else.
AnswerID: 186028

Follow Up By: Robin - Sunday, Jul 30, 2006 at 18:40

Sunday, Jul 30, 2006 at 18:40
Hi Roachie

Like most of these things its a bit of a judgement decision based
on your own circumstances.

Over here in Vic with plenty of trees and steep wet tracks I use a winch a fair bit.

But in my experience of the deserts particulary on main routes, there are few
trees and less situations in which a snatch strap doesn't solve the problem.

While we were doing the North/south simpson crossing recently others doing the Madigan planned the same action removing winches in group (except one) preferring more fuel instead.

There will always be the odd case of course but for us it, like a hi-lift jack is
low down on the list as beyond the obvious good tyre control and basic recovery
gear, we have/take double difflocks floor mats that can be sandmats, Air Bag and light chains.

If you had few of the above, and were alone, then a winch would be up the list a little.

We find that common sense and a shovel are our best friends in the sand and that a bigger issue is the odd downpour and flat muddy roads, while a winch may pull you out of a ditch, with a lot of effort, thats about it.
Whereas the light chains do that and then allow you to continue safely if slowly.

If car was way underloaded though I wouldn't bother taking it off.

Robin Miller
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FollowupID: 443113

Follow Up By: Member - John V (VIC) - Tuesday, Aug 01, 2006 at 23:13

Tuesday, Aug 01, 2006 at 23:13
Hi footloose

thanks for your feedback.

I will have UHF hand held radios.
Have thought about the flag now and will arrange something suitable.

cheers

John

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FollowupID: 443680

Reply By: bucky - Sunday, Jul 30, 2006 at 06:59

Sunday, Jul 30, 2006 at 06:59
John V

For safety sake, and your family's sake, do not travell alone, its not worth the risk.

Asking on Explore Oz, is your best bet, CONGRATULATIONS

There is always someone or some group going across the Desert or the Plenty Highway.

Cheers Mate
Bucky
AnswerID: 186042

Follow Up By: Robin - Sunday, Jul 30, 2006 at 08:11

Sunday, Jul 30, 2006 at 08:11
Hi John

With 5 weeks (lucky guy) you shoudn't really have any issues. The main Simpson drive is fairly busy these days and or average you can expect to see several vehicles most days, sometimes a lot more.
Its also relatively easy to, specially without a trailer. We have gone across more than once alone.

On our most recent trip there june 2006, which was actually off the main track we
used 1.5 lt water per person per day and on most Simpson crossing we
camped 2 nights and 3rd night at Dalhouise. I.E. we use 13.5 for typically crossing
as plan our camping such that don't need washing dishes/clothes.
While we know our own requirements well , we still carry twice what we need
as backup.
This was backed up with 3 special drinks each per day , like a can of diet coke etc for kids (about extra 1 lt fliud).

A lot of this stuff depends on your style of camping, and most I think just take to much unecessary junk along.
We removed our winch and towbar for last trip - don't use a bullbar and this alone can make 100kg weight difference.

Being on your own, you may feel the need for backup, whenever we have felt that way out there we have usually asked around all the campers at places like dalhousie , when they are going across - and just left an hour or two earlier
or you can tag alone if you find someone friendly.

The cheapest "Insurance" is to pick up a sat phone at Mt dare and drop it off on the other side at Birdsville or vice versa.

I would do the following basic things in addition to the normal tools and camping gear-

At Melbourne - make sure you car fully loaded is under its GVM as per public
weighbridge - overstressing cars is a fundamental underlying cause of breakdowns.

Take basic belts and hoses and know how to change them - you can by these in kit packs.

UHF radio

GPS - with track plot in it

We always carry 5 days of emergency food, usually deb mashed potato/peas etc which packs up very small.

1 spare is fine , just travel at a reasonable pace,
This is much better tyre insurance than carrying extra spares.
I.E. 80 not 100kmh on Birdsville's stony track etc

I consider carrying a range of patches, spare tube and tyrepliers or equivalent
important and also actually having used those tools in advance, not learning
on the road.

Go camping one night, with gear as per planned trip , to shakedown any issues,
see how much water you actually use etc and get everyone involved in this process to build up anticipation.

Don't try new/unusal/rich foods on the actual trip. Take only what you
have eaten before and your system knows.

Flies during the day are probably only annoying issue.

Its a lot of fun and not much of a worry on the main tracks.

Robin Miller



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FollowupID: 443037

Follow Up By: Robin - Sunday, Jul 30, 2006 at 08:25

Sunday, Jul 30, 2006 at 08:25
Whoops someone interruped me with a nice cup of coffee!

I was going to say that a small sand flag is , I think important and that it doesn't need to be tall if mounted at front bumper, just over roof height is good, as this makes it effectively higher when going up a dune.

We just use kids bike flag. (flexible fibreglass not to high)

On last trip with 6 vehicles we had all sorts of flags , some even with 6 meter tall bamboo ones flapping around.

By the end of trip, only ours remained undamaged as most others had broken with
excessive loads on mount or been taken out by overhead branches which were more prevalent in the north simpson than the main track which has lfew such obstackles.
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FollowupID: 443040

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Jul 30, 2006 at 10:05

Sunday, Jul 30, 2006 at 10:05
G'day Robin,
I agree with almost everything you said above, but query one thing (with all due respect).......
You said you removed your winch to do the Simpson Crossing. I'm very surprised by that comment! I would have thought it would have been the sort of thing you could leave off your truck for 11 months of the year and only bolt it on when you are about to tackle a (potentially) hazardous trip. My winch sits on the bullbar 90% of the time with no chance of it being required. I'm too lazy to remove it. However, if I was prepared to put-it-on then take-it-off, I certainly wouldn't be taking it off in readiness for a "outback trip".
Just my opinion.
Cheers
Roachie
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FollowupID: 443055

Reply By: jojo - Sunday, Jul 30, 2006 at 17:57

Sunday, Jul 30, 2006 at 17:57
Hi John,
I have read your article and realise that you will be travelling thru the simspon desert some time in September. Just to let you know that there is a party going thru the last week of August which is intending to be in Birdsville for the Birdsville races. It is all family type of people no cowboys. If interested let us know.

cheers
AnswerID: 186091

Follow Up By: Member - John V (VIC) - Tuesday, Aug 01, 2006 at 23:18

Tuesday, Aug 01, 2006 at 23:18
jojo

thanks for the offer....i would say we would be still be travelling through Flinders ranges on the way to Alice during this stage.

We intend to travel from Dalhousie to Birdsville mid September which i believe is after the races.

thanks again for you offer

ciao
John
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FollowupID: 443682

Reply By: Crackles - Sunday, Jul 30, 2006 at 22:01

Sunday, Jul 30, 2006 at 22:01
Gaday John. If you are a Novice to sand driving & don’t have much mechanical knowledge I’d suggest giving the Simpson a miss, possibly just heading out to Big Red & Dalhousie on the other side. Ideally one would travel in a group but with so many crossing these days on the common routes (Rig Rd / French Line) you would not have to wait much more than 3 hours for assistance anyway. On your own you should take a few more precautions including hiring a sat phone for the run across the desert.
A possible route from Melb would be up the Birdsville track, across the Simpson to Mt Dare, Old Andado, Finke, Chambers Pillar to Alice Springs.
Restock & service the car then continue out to the East then West MacDonnell Ranges, Palm Valley, Mereenie Loop to Kings Canyon and Ayers Rock.
Head south to the Painted Desert & Coober Pedy then across to Oodnadatta. Follow the old Gahn down to Copely. If you still have any time left a detour through the Gammon Ranges via Arkaroola then the Flinders but I suspect that & the Innamincka region would be worth a 3 week trip another time. Avoid trying to do it all in just 5 weeks unless you like driving (lots).
60 litres water would be minimum at that time of the year. Allowance must be made for being held up for several days & a complete replacement of the radiator should it be holed. I allow between 5 & 7 litres per person per day.
1 spare tyre.........a bit of a risk on your own but OK if you drive steady, reduce tyre preasures on the dirt & have an extensive tyre repair kit & tubes.
Have a great trip.
Cheers Craig..........
AnswerID: 186171

Follow Up By: Member - John V (VIC) - Tuesday, Aug 01, 2006 at 23:24

Tuesday, Aug 01, 2006 at 23:24
Gday Crackles / Craig

The idea of hiring a Satphone has crossed my mind, and I will probably arrange that to happen for the crossing for sure.

Your route laid out is almost what i had planned but in reverse....is there any benefits going one to the other ...?

I understood the winds create a different approach angle on the dunes, which can make one direction possibly harder than the other. Driving up the steep side versus the more anled approach..
Just purchased a 50 litre water tank and will carry an additional 20lites seperate tank...hopefully that should be enough.

thanks for your feedback
cheers
JOhn

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FollowupID: 443685

Follow Up By: Crackles - Wednesday, Aug 02, 2006 at 20:16

Wednesday, Aug 02, 2006 at 20:16
The dunes will be slightly steeper East to West but the additional traffic that travels the "easy way" chop the track up on the western approaches to the dunes making it much the same which ever way you go. I think its nice to spend a couple of days relaxing after the crossing in the Dalhousie springs where others prefer to spend time with their feet up in the Pub. With the Birdsville Races on around the time you are leaving you may be able to incorperate that into your itinerary if you go the direction I have suggested (not sure of exact date).
70 litres will be sufficient with enough reserve for any problems. Just avoid cooking meals that require alot of water to prepare or wash up. Always good to have multiple containers for water, a leak in a single tank could leave you with next to nothing.
Cheers Craig...........
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FollowupID: 443849

Reply By: Landie - Monday, Jul 31, 2006 at 08:59

Monday, Jul 31, 2006 at 08:59
John

I think the answer to your question lies in what strategy you have in place if something goes wrong. People have been travelling solo around this country since Adam was a boy; just have a plan as to how you will deal with abnormal situations that might arise.

From a vehicle perspective, if it is well maintained and you drive cautiously you shouldn’t have any problems. The area that comes under pressure is suspension, but again, driving technique, as well as how much load you are carrying is one way to control it. Most late model vehicles have electronics and in a lot of cases if something goes wrong with it you may not be able to fix it. This is when you need a credit card with a healthy limit as you may need a tow out and this won’t come cheaply. But it is a legitimate risk mitigant.

I have been across a couple of times, firstly in a group and secondly on a solo trip. Our son (now 6) accompanied us on these trips. Food hygiene is extremely important for all, but especially with young ones. Diarrhoea will dehydrate them very quickly and this is one area you should be diligent with. The key is to have a reliable means of communication with a back-up as Murphy Law says when it goes pear-shape have aback-up plan as well. We had a Sat phone and a HF radio as well as GPS to ensure we could identify our exact position in need.

Keep the weight down in your vehicle and take twice as much water as you think you will need.

As a matter of interest the Simpson Desert bike classic; a push-bike race from Purnie Bore to Birdsville is on in September. This group will have about 20 staters with back-up crews. Even in September the Desert has many travellers.

Just have a robust risk management strategy in place.
AnswerID: 186210

Reply By: Member - Vincent A M (NSW) - Monday, Jul 31, 2006 at 17:56

Monday, Jul 31, 2006 at 17:56
It all depends on your capability, My family (wife, daughter 8' son 11, & myself ) Crossed about the same time last year alone with out hesitation & a lot did & they & us had a great time even though it was Very Hot & we crossed quicker than planned due to the heat, (see old trip log posted) I also crossed in 1977 (1 x 4wd) & that was HARD but still not a problem, but its up to your capability, i saw a group crossing who had a PAID guide that should have NOT left the Bitumen hwy including the guide in all sorts of problems.
Have a great trip & good luck
AnswerID: 186329

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