Heading up the Gibb River Road: Trip Report 3

Submitted: Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 09:10
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The Gibb River Road was in superb condition except where we left it to do the side trips. The road into Windjana and Tunnel Creek was hard going and very corrugated but we arrived at Windjana in time for the most brilliant sunset and that was worth every bump. I think those cliffs of Windjana looming up so close make one of the nicest camping spots I've been to. Next day we walked into the gorge for a couple of hours and then headed off to Tunnel Creek where we took our torches and waded through to the far end. What an interesting place this is. It was made even more interesting when I almost walked out on top of a big black snake. Luckily someone warned me in time! Lillimilura Police Station ruins and the story of Pigeon took up our lunch time.

Back on the Gibb River Road and our first stop was at the shop in the caravan on the bank of the Lennard River. What a funny place..it even has chairs, tables and umbrellas! Bell Gorge was our camp for the night and the next day we walked in then climbed around the falls to swim. From there we moved on to Charnley River Station. It's about 42kms off the Gibb on a pretty good road and once there the campground is large, hot showers and several gorges and pools to drive to and spend time. It was $24 for the night. We went to Dillie Gorge and for that entire afternoon had the place all to ourselves. We swam and wandered around and it was so peaceful. Charnley would be a bird watchers paradise as we saw so many different kinds that I lost count. From Charnley we returned to the GRR and stopped at Adcock's Gorge which is open and worth the drive and the walk in. Next was Galvan's Gorge which I think is one of the real gems of the drive. A small semi circle of cliffs surround the falls and the pool below. There is a boab looking down over the pool from above. We had a swim and spent some time before heading off for Manning Gorge.

You get your permit for Manning Gorge from the Mt Barnett Roadhouse and it's $25 for a couple. This includes camping so isn't too bad. The campground has flush toilets and cold showers. The walk to the top pool takes about an hour and a half but is so worth the effort. It's just so beautiful up there with the waterfall and the large pool of clear, clear water surrounded by enormous red cliffs. Unfortunately I got really hot walking in and then when I got into the water my body temperature plummeted and I thought I was going to faint. Not a good feeling when you're out in the middle of the water. Luckily Ray was close by and helped me out to the edge. There were a lot of campers at Manning but since it's a large camping area there was plenty of room.

From Manning Gorge we went to Barnett River Gorge the next day and then on to the Gibb River Crossing for lunch then to Drysdale River Station. The GRR continued good until about ten kms after the Hann River where it was very corrugated to the Kalumburu road junction. The grader was working around the Hann River area so by now it may be good all the way to the junction.

It was really good to get to Drysdale and enjoy a drink in a pleasant atmosphere, do some clothes washing and prepare for the trip up to the Mitchell Plateau and Kalumburu. The road from the junction to Drysdale was excellent and continued that way for about 70kms north. After that it was very corrugated. I agree with those who say there is a sweet speed over corrugations which varies with the conditions but I also agree that there are some corrugations where there is nothing else you can do but slow down. Anyway, we got to the Mitchell turn off and of course the conditions got worse from then on in to the campground. This was expected and endured!

Our walk to the falls began with me not looking where I was going and falling flat on my face. I mean flat on my face too, as my knees never touched the ground at all. The last thing that hit was my nose..kerplunk! Ray looked around and I was lying at full length! Luckily for me no rocks were on the track and all I got was a sore nose and the stuffing knocked out of me! But, on we went and the walk was easy going really. We stopped at Little Mertens, were astounded by the drop at Big Mertens, then rounded the corner and there they were, the Mitchell Falls. Words fail, don't they. With every traveller this year, we were lucky that the falls were still flowing. We ate our lunch, had a swim, wandered around and took endless photos and then it was time for our helicopter flight. With two others we circled the falls, went out to Surveyor's Pool then to the coast and back along the Mitchell River to the falls, then back to camp. It was a terrific experience. It's truly a magnificent place.

We camped that night at the King Edward River where I saw a huge goanna near our camp. Next day we made the trip up to Kalumburu. That road was bad enough but we found it ok. I guess anything after the Mitchell Falls road felt good! We arrived, got our permit ($40) and noticed people waiting near the museum at the Mission. Since this was the main thing we'd come to Kalumburu to do, we rushed over and were told we could join in. This was a special tour that Father Anscar was giving for a group of people who were taking a cruise from Wyndham to Derby. We had just come off the dusty road and been away from proper showers for two days..they looked like they'd stepped out of Vogue magazine. One lady looked me up and down and said "you're not with our cruise, are you"? Anyway, this was very nearly the highlight of our trip. Father Anscar is such a quirky, intelligent, kindly and knowledgeable man. The collection in the museum defies description as it ranges from pieces of rock from ancient times to jewellery, pottery, modern day items from all over the world and on and on..each item had a story and Father would let a happy Ah Ha after each one. At the end I went up to speak to him. The reason for my wanting to visit the museum and see him was that he was born in Beulah, the place where I was born and where I work. He grasped my hands and beamed with delight, loudly telling everyone about our connection and saying how pleased he was and that I was the first person from Beulah to ever come and visit him. All in all it was such a happy and unforgettable afternoon.

The rest of the day was spent driving out to Honeymoon Beach and seeing the sea at the top of WA.

Next - Kalumburu to Kununurra and the Bungle Bungles
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Reply By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 09:32

Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 09:32
Great report Vivian. Certainly brings back memories of my trip last year. I didn't do the Kalumburu mission tour but a couple from our trip did and were equally impressed. The shop at Kalumburu was good and handy as were the ice creams at Lennard River.

I'm also reminded about when my bride writes in our journal that she never mentions fishing - no matter how good it was or how much it may have taken up on any day. How can you not mention fishing when visiting Kalumburu?

It was a good read and a good trip no doubt injuries aside. Also amazing, the thing with injuries we all seemed to come back with some, hope you have recovered without lasting effects.

Kind regards
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Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 20:57

Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 20:57
Beatit,

I'm sorry that I didn't mention fishing!! Thanks for asking, yes, my injuries have all been recovered from. The only thing that hasn't recovered is the recurring wish that I was still out there travelling.

Viv
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Reply By: Member - andrew B (Kununurra) - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 09:40

Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 09:40
Gday Vivien and all

I also found Father Anscar's tour a real highlight on a recent fishing trip in the area - and I am not much of a history buff or religious. Everyone going into Mitchell falls this year has been spoiled, from all reports. Planning to take the family in there as soon as the road opens next year, hope we have a good wet again, although work could do without the rain...

Sounds like a good trip

Cheers Andrew
AnswerID: 194106

Reply By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 10:18

Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 10:18
Ah, the memories your report invokes.

This has to be the most stunning area of Australia we have visited so far.

We named the goanna at King Edward River 'Eddie' (yes it is very original).

I've put a pic of him into my rig picture here. Does this look like him?
AnswerID: 194109

Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 19:33

Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 19:33
Norm,

That's the one. Eddie from King Edward River!!! What a poser!

Thanks

Viv
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Reply By: Max - Sydney - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 11:36

Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 11:36
Viv

Your account bring its all back - we have done a couple of trips to Mitchell Falls, with varying amounts of water going over, and I suspect better road conditions than you found. If only we could find out when the grader is going through the worst spots!

Father Anscar at Kalumburu is a treasure - its seven years since we did his tour and still treasure his delightful manner, his sincerity and the great little museum he has there.

Thanks for the memories
Max

AnswerID: 194121

Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 19:02

Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 19:02
Max,

Father Anscar and his museum really are both treasures. To find such gems at the end of the long corrugated road is just one of the things that make travel in Australia so interesting. You just never know what you're going to find next!!

Thanks and glad our trip reminded of your happy memories.

Viv
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FollowupID: 452584

Reply By: Member - Andrew W (SA) - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 11:57

Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 11:57
Lovely report Vivien.

I really appreciate the time you took and will look out for the others.

Andrew.
AnswerID: 194122

Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 18:54

Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 18:54
Andrew,

It was like reliving the trip all over the again as I was writing.

Thank you

Viv
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FollowupID: 452580

Reply By: Darian (SA) - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 17:58

Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 17:58
If the goanna you mention at King Edward River campground was an olive colour, and down by the water (western end - in front of the enviro toilets) ........... we saw him too - he was there both days - think it was his home - what a top place that was - maybe the the best camp we had on our trip, back in July.
AnswerID: 194185

Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 18:09

Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 18:09
Is this him Darian?
Click on the pic to go to rig profile, then again to make it bigger.

King Edward River was our best camp site in 16 weeks. We stayed there 5 days in total. Two on the way up and three on the way back.
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Follow Up By: Darian (SA) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 12:09

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 12:09
Certainly looks like the Eddie we saw - seemed quite happy and healthy - then again, with the flushing that the top-end gets each wet, tucker is probably not an issue for him - in fact, every waterway we saw up north, even down to the ones you could jump across, had plenty of fish in them, even if they were just fry - such a healthy place in contrast to the polluted drains we call creeks down here.
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Reply By: Member - Howard P (WA) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 17:10

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 17:10
Hi Vivien
Thanks for the great reports they will be invaluable for us. We are off to Indee Station, 80 Mile Beach, Derby, GRR, Bungles, Broome and Karijini in 10 sleeps! We know it will be hot but unfortunately this is the only time we could get away.

I hope we are not as unlucky as the poor family with the camper trailer!
Regards
Howard and Diana (Perth)
AnswerID: 194367

Reply By: Member - JohnR (Vic)&Moses - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 20:47

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 20:47
Heather taking note of your reports Viv. I know she enjoys them, even though she doesn't say so herself online.
AnswerID: 194417

Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 22:33

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 22:33
Thanks John and Heather,

It was fun writing and reliving the trip. Thank you and glad that you enjoyed them. Hope we can catch up one day.

Viv
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Reply By: nick78 - Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 16:42

Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 16:42
And remember, when travelling 'The Mighty Gibb' and you think that the going is tough... remind yourself that you're not RIDING over millions of corrugations!!

I had an amazing trip (rather tough) but VERY fulfilling.

Nic.

And please: If you are passing cyclists, SLOW DOWN!! Dust doesn't taste all that good and rocks hitting bare legs hurt!!


AnswerID: 194551

Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 18:58

Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 18:58
Rick,

That really is a mighty effort! We met a couple of German cyclists while we were camped at Ellenbrae. They were going to have a rest day to recuperate from the corrugations the next day.

I ride a road bicycle so I have some idea of what it takes to do what you're doing. I admire you greatly. I also know what you mean about motorists slowing down. It can get a bit scarey out there on the road.

Well done

Viv
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