buggered head stud
Submitted: Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 23:36
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14
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earwig65
G'day folks,,would apprieciate any tips or advise from you worldly bunch, should you know the answer to this curly question,,,,,, I'm removing the cylinder head from my Pajero diesel, all the head studs have come out without a problem,,,,bar 1!!! the final stud wont budge & to make matters worse, it appears the hexagonal hole in the bolt (they're allen-key heads) has rounded out due to the tension req'd to undo them, how do you now remove the bolt,,some suggestions i've had from
well meaning friends include: drill the bolthead off-lift the cyl head off & weld a nut to the bolt-stem.
Weld a larger allen key socket into the bolthead after forcing it onto the bolt with a big hammer.
Angle grind the bolthead off-(not enuff room to do this one)
Please help,, thanks. Earwig.
Reply By: nuboy - Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 23:49
Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 23:49
Earwig65,
At the end of the day all the above suggestions will work, what you have to do is pick the one that you feel comfertable with. Another option, Not sure what the tool is called but it is used to remove studs on exhaust manifolds etc, it has 2Xwheels which lockup against one another when placed on a stud and allow removal, could be worth a try?
AnswerID:
250633
Reply By: earwig65 - Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 23:52
Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 23:52
Cheers Nuboy, thanks for your suggestions,
AnswerID:
250634
Reply By: Member - extfilm (NSW) - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 00:08
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 00:08
Probably not enough room either for that tool...... the above would work. Personally I would use a Cold chisel. Before I used it though I would put all the bolts back in and nip them up. get a pin punch (not a centre punch) and put it in the allen key hold and give it a few belts with a hammer. Then use the cold chisel........
Head bolts should be removed in a certain sequence and retightened in reverse....... Maybe why you could not get the last one out.
Just remember when replacing, find out the sequence, then nip them all up first and then tighten at least twice before attaining the required torque......
AnswerID:
250637
Follow Up By: Stu050 - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 13:49
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 13:49
The usual sequence is to start in the centre and gradually work you way to the ends, tighting diagonally opposite bolts.
FollowupID:
511840
Reply By: Member - Luke (SA) - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 06:40
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 06:40
I would get the proper bolt when puting the head back on, wheather it be a second hand one from a wreckers or a new one
AnswerID:
250644
Reply By: Russel & Mary - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 07:12
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 07:12
Dear earwig, I think the safest way would be drill out the allen head idea whilst using
water or cutting oil to keep the drill tip cool. This should take about 10 minutes. Keeping the drill cool is imperitive or you (or at least the drill bit) will be screaming very shortly. Rus.
AnswerID:
250646
Follow Up By: Stu050 - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 13:53
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 13:53
Don't forget that head bolts are high tensile steel, welding something onto the end of it may be the better option.
FollowupID:
511841
Reply By: Member No 1- Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 07:55
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 07:55
make an 1/2 in socket allen key fit...a Good fit...taking care not to create further damage
get one of these !MPG:4!
it may work
AnswerID:
250648
Reply By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 08:16
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 08:16
I'm assuming you have now soaked the offending stud with penetrating oil/Lanotec etc, so that once you do get some purchase on it, it will be less likely to snap off.
I'd be inclined to weld a nut onto it......make sure the size of
the nut is close or same as the thread. By that, I mean if you can't find a nut with the exact thread size, then use one that is as close as possible......the stud is buggared anyway, so it's no problem if you ruin the thread.
Then I'd be using my Shentai impact wrench (similar to the manual one that Nudie has shown above, but the 12 volt jobbie REALLY packs a punch). That will either remove the stud or snap it off.....hence my reference to oil in the first paragraph above.
Good luck
Roachie
AnswerID:
250651
Follow Up By: Sand Man (SA) - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 09:54
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 09:54
Hi Bill,
Have you fixed your Shentai up, or bought another one?
Mine is working OK still, but is not a Shentai brand. Think I got
mine from Repco some years back.
Jees, wish I could have gone to Warraweena this weekend:-((
FollowupID:
511818
Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 16:58
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 16:58
G'day Bill,
Bought a new one for $89- off internet site. I've got a feeling it's gunna be no good after a month or 2 so I will have to submit a warranty claim;-))
FollowupID:
511864
Reply By: ooze - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 10:19
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 10:19
Saw an ad on tele for some Loctite branded 'Bolt Freeze' stuff for freeing up stuck bolts and nuts. It's in a spray can an the label said it's -43 degrees. Might help. Probably a good remedy for a hot beer too!
AnswerID:
250678
Reply By: Member - Mark E (VIC) - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 10:28
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 10:28
earwig,
You need one of these.....
www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html
I've tried them on all sorts of things and they're great if used correctly.
Cheers,
Mark
AnswerID:
250679
Reply By: Gerhardp1 - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 15:44
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 15:44
If you are able to drill the head off the stud that would be the best way to go.
Take heed to drill slowly and with plenty of lubrication.
Once the stud head is drilled away, the cylinder head can be lifted off leaving the stud protruding from the block.
From here it should be relatively easy to unscrew the stud - if it won't budge with vise grips, you could weld on a nut and get it that way. Make sure no welding or other by-products drop into the cylinders....
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Reply By: earwig65 - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 15:53
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 15:53
thanks fellas for all your suggestions, we will be going the Drill-off-the-head method since the allen key socket stud welded to the bolt hasnt worked & produced probably more work for me now!!
Your time has been apprieciated, thank you all. Earwig
AnswerID:
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Reply By: Member - Duncs - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 19:15
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 19:15
Earwig,
I don't know where you are but years ago there was a guy in
Sydney who would come to you and remove stubborn/broken studds from your engine. He was a genius. I found him in the Yellow Pages under Hellicoil.
I broke an exhaust stud on a 3l VL Commodore. I could not even see it properly. He turned up drilled it out and used an ezi out to get the studd. All up it took him about 20min I can't remember how much it cost but it was cheaper than removing the head and taking it to an enginering
shop to remove the studd. Iwas happy to pay it.
Duncs
AnswerID:
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Reply By: Exploder - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 19:35
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 19:35
When removing head bolts crack em all in sequence First then you are rite to fully undo them all, otherwise you end up with all that clamping force that was applied to the head forcing up against that one bolt, and it won’t budge.
You will need to Drill out the head very carefully and squally, start with a say a 6mm bit and work 8, 10 Ect, Block all ya oil galleries Ect and use WD40 CRC Ect to cool the bit
well you are drilling to avoid work hardening the steel .
When reinstalling, make sure to oil the thread of the bolts and under the head of the bolts to achiever correct torque spec, Don’t put down the bolt hole or you will induce Hydraulic lock on the bolt’s when you do em up, only oil the bolts themselves then install.
Cheers.
AnswerID:
250775
Follow Up By: Exploder - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 19:41
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 19:41
You will need to Drill out the head very
that should read, you will need to drill out the head of the bolt.
also i will add
I have tried the other way's before at some point and 8/10 times you end up there 40 minuets latter with a drill in hand, with 2 buggered sockets and all the other chit on the
table next to you , a deformed bolt and welding splatter on the head.
Just drill it, it's a 10 minuet Job.
FollowupID:
511920
Reply By: earwig65 - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 21:40
Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 21:40
thanks Duncs, & Exploder, good advice & i'm grateful for all the comments, Duncs, i'm in the
Pilbara, so i bet that guy will charge me quite a bit for a call out up here!
Not a bad idea for a business tho'
Happy
Trails to you all out there.
Earwig
AnswerID:
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