Sunday, Dec 16, 2012 at 16:22
I was hitching the CSR for a second year in a row. At
Well 36 I was very comfortable with clean
water and camped there for a few days waiting for traffic and the possibility of a lift to
Well 37. The flies and ants started to get to me on about the 4th day however. It had rained through the night and was overcast the next day as
well. I knew I could not stray from
water for longer than two days and that
Well 37
water was not the best I had seen the year before. But with cloud cover, the chance of further rain and the knowledge that I could probably make do with whatever
water I found in an emergency, I set out. My pack weight was 40kg, 8 litres being
water.
Carrying that much weight almost crippled me. I staggered along for a whole day, camped overnight, caught a bit of rain to top up my
water and staggered along into the next day. The distance between the wells was only 20km, but in one day I had only covered 10kms. My feet were in agony, my inner resources under pressure, one foot in front of the other. Then I heard an unfamiliar sound. That of a machine. A vehicle. I call them the Parrot People. Two friends attending a conference in
Alice Springs, decided to make a little detour home onto the CSR for the specific purpose of looking for the Princess Parrots which live in only a few areas around Australia. I think they said from
Well 34 to
Well 39, Kings Canyon and a couple of other small areas. I was so relieved as I cast my over the inside of the vehicle. It was not overloaded to the ceiling as other CSR vehicles. There was space enough for me. Not. My hopes were dashed when the lovely couple said there was no space to give me a lift to
Well 37, 5kms down the track. I saw plenty of space!!! I would hang off the sides even if I had to. But as a hitch hiker I have a value system. Do not impose myself. This is their journey too. If people offer me
water or a lift I may accept, but I will not make my situation their problem. They were both keen bushwalkers themselves and when the lady offered to take my heavy pack and leave it at the next
well, I fell over myself accepting the offer. It was a risk being separated from my kit, but I removed my emergency supplies and equipment and gratefully loaded the majority of my kit into their 4x4. And topped up with their offer of
water.
The walking was much faster now and very pleasant. Such a relief to only be carrying 10kg, I was enjoying my surroundings again. Between Well36 and 37 is a particularly beautiful section of the CSR with lovely desert pines and lots of bird life, camels and dingoes. At the
Well 37 I was relieved to see my red backpack and delighted to find a surprise. An
orange and apple wrapped in paper and somehow kept cool. What a treat. I then looked into the
well. The
water was a horrible
grey gruel of moving things and nasty! It tried not to let the shock get to me. I could boil it and treat it with
water purifying tablets and in an emergency, I would drink it, but now I had to decide if I was in an emergency. I went and found a nice place to
camp under the trees and then assessed my situation. The next
well with
water was an impossible walk. If I stayed where I was for longer than 24 hours waiting for a lift, my
water reserves would be depleted. If a lift did not come, one that had space or even just spare
water, I would be be forced to drink the bad looking
water. I would survive but I preferred an alternative.
Well 36 had good, clean
water. I was wishing I was back at my old home. My strength was very low and I doubted my ability to to carry my heavy backback all the way. I accepted that I might have to ditch my kit close to Well36 and travel the last bit lighter, to get
water.
I decided to carbo load with food over lunch, evening meal and breakfast, building my strength for the ordeal ahead. It was incredible to feel the power returning to my body as I put in fuel. After breakfast I prepared to start the trek. What a lovely surprise then, to meet the Parrot People again on their way back!!! The road ahead had not look good and they had decided not to go to
Well 39 and rather turn back early. I was delighted. They shared a meal with me again, topped up my
water and again offered to carry my backpack to Well36. This time I could not give them most of my pack as I would need it for an
overnight camp, but I did give them my months supply of food less what I needed for two days. 10kgs off my weight helped a lot.
I arrived the next day at
Well 36 with a massive blister on a big toe, but very happy to see my old home, the food store hanging from a tree...... and clean
water. Of course, after this epic 4 day adventure, lots of traffic suddenly all arrived at once at
Well 36!
This was one of my toughest stints on the CSR. It was also one I remember with fondness for the sense of achievement and the incredible feeling of being looked out for when I am in the middle of nowhere. I am allowed to struggle and grow and experience all that I want to experience, but .... that little bit of help, just enough, not too much, is always provided when needed most ... and I am grateful.
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Follow Up By: Mark T6 - Monday, Dec 17, 2012 at 17:05
Monday, Dec 17, 2012 at 17:05
I'm planning a CSR crossing next year with some friends. We are crapping oursleves with how we'll manage in our air conditioned Toyota's and instant pop up tents, and on board Fridges (cold beer and wine every day) and you not only walked the CSR you were hitch hiking.......in a word...wow
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Follow Up By: Member - eighty matey - Monday, Dec 17, 2012 at 19:02
Monday, Dec 17, 2012 at 19:02
I can't wait to read Gaynor's book when she gets to write it..
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Follow Up By: Mark T6 - Tuesday, Dec 18, 2012 at 10:28
Tuesday, Dec 18, 2012 at 10:28
It would be a great read, although I gather many have done it and I was reading on another
Forum where someone was planning to do it next year. Whilst I am in awe of them doing that I am not sure it's really the smartest thing to do...after all if the crap hits the fan you are relying on everyone else to get you out (through). BUT it's certainly some sort of badge to wear "what you crossed the CSR in 21 days in your air conditioned 4WD...bah, I walked it in 3 months".
And that IS somethig to tell the grandkids
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Follow Up By: Gaynor - Tuesday, Dec 18, 2012 at 18:30
Tuesday, Dec 18, 2012 at 18:30
You have a great sense of humour Mark T6 :-) And it is all true what you said in your first post about people crapping about doing it in luxury.
With regards to relying on others to get me out or through:
My perspective is a little different, naturally. I do not like relying on other people. I am fiercely independent. Something my friends and family struggle with. By joining up with Pam and Tony with their support vehicle this is the first time I am relying on others to follow through with a certain course of action. It scares the shit out of me. It goes against everything I live by. I am a loner. I don't know how to play
well with others over an extended period of time. Traveling with Pam and Tony will be an extreme test of my ability to adapt and work as a team. A test I am both daunted by .... and challenged. If we can do this successfully, I will learn that it is possible for people to change. That is is possible for Me to change.
But knowing how hard that is from experience, I am obviously planning a backup option that does not rely on daily assistance. I have a body that has been broken and a difficult personality to contend with. To get to the other side is a major goal if I do not want to feel like a failure in everything and so I prepare for the alternative - walking the last half alone if I have to, in my own time, making food and
water drops ahead of the start.
I also carry a SPOT. A satellite tracker with a paid up extraction and repatriation option and I have direct contact with the GEOS Alliance rescue coordinator in Australia who will be monitoring my progress. This is not reliance. This is forward planning. A service paid for in advance. I don't expect anything from anyone, other than the normal courtesy I have been offered by fellow travelers in all my years of travelling around Australia. It makes the journey more pleasant and sometimes, a little easier. Ultimately I choose to do what I am doing with eyes wide open, and I accept the consequences of the outcome as being my sole responsibility.
Hopefully Mark T6, we will get to meet on the CSR next year (2013) and share a few stories over a
camp fire :-)
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Follow Up By: Member - eighty matey - Tuesday, Dec 18, 2012 at 21:33
Tuesday, Dec 18, 2012 at 21:33
Hi Mark T6,
I suggest you check out
ThreadID: 99313 to get an idea of the background to Gaynor's hitchhiking history, plus a bit more.
Steve
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Follow Up By: Member - eighty matey - Tuesday, Dec 18, 2012 at 21:38
Tuesday, Dec 18, 2012 at 21:38
Hi Mark T6,
I suggest you check out
ThreadID: 99313 to get an idea of the background to Gaynor's hitchhiking history, plus a bit more.
Steve
FollowupID:
776673
Follow Up By: Mark T6 - Wednesday, Dec 19, 2012 at 09:48
Wednesday, Dec 19, 2012 at 09:48
It would be a pleasure Gaynor, as I said in my first reply I am in absolute awe of someone who would do that. I crossed the Simpson last year, lots of Dunes, very remote and he's us arriving, setting up our 2 minute "Taj Mahal" tents, digging a hole for the pop up dunny, starting the fire, grabbing a coldie out of the fridge, checking the footy scores on the sat phone and saying "boy that was a tough day...52 Kms in 7 hours"
And then I read this, and I am somewhat embarressed in comparison.
We'll be doing a crossing mid July to 1st week August, me in my Silver Prado, a mate in a Cruiser Troopy, and a couple of other mates in a 100 and 200 landcruiser...if we run into you I'll be saying "hey are you that lady from Explore Oz"...and if so I'd be delighted to share a cuppa, or one of my cold beers or one of my wifes cold wines.
And I am about to read thread 99313 (thanks Steve)
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