The Back Roads of North West New South Wales

Submitted: Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 13:44
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I decided to have a look at some different country on my journey from Broken Hill to Milparinka this week. And so I took to the roads less travelled via Silverton, Umberumberka Reservoir and Stations beyond.

The bitumen gave way to a stony, washed out road from the reservoir for a short distance and then became a hard packed sand road for the rest of the way. Numerous washouts had to be negotiated with care. On this route one passes along the Mundi Mundi Plain. It has been dry for a while but recent rains have brought a bit of greenery to the ground surface, where seemingly, nothing seems to grow except some Acacia derivatives. Sheep and goats and local fauna seem to thrive though.

I passed by the stations of Eldee, Wilangee, Kentappa, Mount Woowoolahra, McDougalls Well, Joulnie, Westwood Downs, Pine Ridge, Sanpah, Border Downs, Winnathee, Yandama and Theldarpa.

My Natmap Raster 250K maps let me down however. I am running the 2005 version but the maps must 20 years out of date. I had both a printed version off my computer and on my PDA. There are tracks shown on the maps, which I failed to locate as they are now non existent but are shown as major arterial unsealed roads. My route took me along a road that became a track and then all but vanished when I picked up what seemed to look like wheel tracks made by a Suzuki. This brought me out right in past Westwood Station Homestead. The Suzuki was there, the dogs were tied up and barking and there was washing on the line. I called out to apologise for driving into the private property but got no response. Maybe whoever was there was having midday nap.

Further along the road at an intersection I met some fellas in a Defender who were going to drive along the Dog Fence. We were talking roads when they produced a commercial map to show me how to get there. The driver fella then said “ Ah! Yer one of them GPS people” noticing the PDA on the windscreen. He then waxed lyrical about the red sand dunes one might encounter along the Dog Fence. But I was going in another direction and left them to their own devices.

Once again my mapping let me down at Border Downs Station as a road marked to Lake Want did not exist. When I arrived at the Dog Fence I met a fella who was an employee of SK Quinyambie Station who had just come through the DF to access one of their other properties across the border and he corroborated that the road shown on the map did not exist.

Various signs along the way had me intrigued and one stated that if you did not comply with current occupational health and safety requirements then you may be refused permission to the station. Another stated that it was illegal to drive along the Dog Fence.

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Just over a sand ridge, were Smithville Gate and Smithville Wild Dog Eradication Depot. I had been told of some historic buildings there but when I arrived at the gate to the Depot, the reception committee included a number of dogs, one of which had its paws on the gate and looked like it was two metres tall. Every time it barked it swallowed a thousand flies and so I decided that in my best interests I should move on, which I did.

At Hawker Gate, which does not exist any longer (at least I could not see it) I avoided a collision with a westbound GU Ute (with Vic rego), which was on the wrong side of the road and driving too fast. I went bush slightly. His mate buzzed by too and waved politely. Seeing as I was off the road I decided to stop and take some photos. From here the road swung east to Milparinka

Outside Milparinka a stone was flicked up by the GQ tyres and pierced a 20lt water bottle on the trailer and I was made aware of this, by the blokes lounging around under the veranda of the Milparinka Pub. There I paid for my three nights accommodation at Mount Browne Goldfields and refuelled at $2.16 a litre. Ouch!!

The next few days was spent at Mount Browne Goldfields swinging the detector, driving off track and enjoying some solitary camping down by Mount Browne Creek where the Honeyeaters, Willie Wags and the melodious Butcherbirds kept me company, not to mention the mobs of feral goats! I found lots of ‘treasures’ but no colour unfortunately. The old mine sites and mullock heaps are littered with old rusted iron and even so, the area had been well detected by the professionals. There is still gold to be found but only in very small quantities.

On the way home I took another back road through Mount Browne Station and also Mount Shannon, Pincally, Pimpara Lake, Yelka and The Veldt Stations before making it to the Silver City Highway. Once again the road was smooth hard surface sand with nary a corrugation. Wildlife was amazing. Fat feral goats with a new crop of kids, a variety of sheep breeds and their lambs, some good-looking Hereford Cattle, Red Kangaroos by the hundreds together with the odd Brown roo, Stumpy-Tail Lizards, Mulga parrots, Lorikeets and Wedge-tail Eagles. And Emu’s by the hundreds too, some with little ones, all trotting to keep up with the slow moving diesel or trying to cross the roads in front of me. All these and the people who farm the area seem to survive well in this very arid region.

At Pincally Station I was let down again by my mapping following a road to nowhere. I backtracked, took a road heading east and then a short while later found a wide graded road with a telephone line beside it heading south. This road was not marked on the map either!

When I arrived at the Silver City Highway to refuel, pump the tyres up and have smoko, a kind traveller was keeping the gate open for me. We had a chat and he wanted to know if the roads were very corrugated. I replied that they were in fact very good apart from the dips and washouts. He seemed a tad disappointed and it turned out that he was on a mission from ARB Company to find some badly corrugated roads to test out some new shock absorbers. I suggested that they try the Anne Beadell Hwy. That would sort any shockie out!

Ah! I forgot to mention gates. It would seem that the road makers in the north west of New South Wales have never heard of cattle grids. Along my journey of some 587 kilometres of back roads, I may have encountered at least 80 gates as I lost count at 50. When I would find one left open I would pass through with a sigh of relief. And not one gate was straight, as at some time or other it had been bent by a bulbar or two! You certainly cannot be in a hurry out here in the Never Never. I saw only 7 vehicles for the two days of driving these roads.

The 146km to Broken Hill is still semi sealed with some gravel sections but the road gangs are working on sealing a section at the moment.

In my travels I caught up with ExplorOz Members Dave B(NSW) and his wife Nora, and would like to thank them sincerely for their kindness and hospitality. I also had a cuppa with MintabiePete (NSW) and his wife, and we found that we shared knowledge of many old characters of our days in the Northern Territory.

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Cheers
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Reply By: Gramps (NSW) - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 13:57

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 13:57
LOL thanks for that Willem. We were out at Umberumberka Reservoir ilast May. I've been looking at the same maps as you with a view to travelling to Camerons Corner via that route but will now have to re-think it.

AnswerID: 322970

Follow Up By: Willem - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 14:07

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 14:07
G'day Gramps

Its a nice drive...just take a Gate-opener with you...LOL


Regards
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Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:01

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:01
Willem Gday!! It sounds like you need one of the old Mahindra Jeeps that were imported about 25 years ago. I think they had an old Peugeot diesel and they reckon that first gear in Low range was so low that you could jump out and open the gate, let the Jeep go through on its own, close the gate and jump back in again and off you go!! Sounds like you had a nice trip.. Michael
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Follow Up By: Willem - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:39

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:39
Hmmm Michael...my old 2stroke could do that in Low first gear

Good in theory though.

What happens when the gate opens towards you???...Run like hell to get the gate open anmd then run to catch up?..Maybe good exercise.............hahahahahaha


Cheers
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Reply By: Member - Stephen L (SA) - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 14:19

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 14:19
Hi Willem
Sounds like you have had another enjoyable trip away.

Take care.

Cheers

Stephen
Who has been here

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Follow Up By: Willem - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 14:52

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 14:52
Hi Stephen

Yes, I try to get as much out of each trip as I can. One does not have to go too far to get away from it all (from my place anyway...lol)

And I will have lots to remind me of the trip. One broken water container, one scrunched trailer lights connecto,r courtesy of a very deep gully and the GQ drivers door which will only open from the outside...bugger!...lol Repairs will be done when it warms up!!!


Regards
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Reply By: Member - Jeff H (QLD) - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 14:51

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 14:51
Onya Willem - wondered where you were.
I'm recently back from a social visit to the Lightning Ridge area, and boy, hasn't it changed in the past 40 odd years.Then again, most places have I guess.

VERY impressed by the hospitality at the opal fields, and prices for diesel, fodder and drinks were refreshingly low. ($3/kg red capsicum, eg.) Shall take the Bride next time round

Stay safe Willem.
Jeff H.
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Follow Up By: Willem - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:40

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:40
G'day Jeff

Did you find any nice colours at LR?

Cheers
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Reply By: Krakka - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 15:06

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 15:06
Still sounds better than my week at work, even having to open the gates. lol
Krakka
AnswerID: 322981

Follow Up By: Willem - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:42

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:42
G'day P&L

It became a habit after a while. I would peer ahead to see if one had been left open. Bugga..no. Oh well... go through the routine. No need to be in a hurry.



Cheers
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Reply By: Member - SKI er (NSW) - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 16:28

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 16:28
Thanks Willem for this wonderful report,

We SWIMBO and I recently did our first then second "free camp" They were great but within 100 metres of the tar

Oh I wish tht I/we had the bravery and fuel capability to even envisage such a journey, duff mapping included.

Thanks for the insight, taste buds still excited.

SKI'er
AnswerID: 322989

Follow Up By: Willem - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:44

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:44
Hi SKI'er

There are some great places just off the road for you to enjoy throughout this wide land and especially in tropical Queensland (it was when I was the last some 10 years ago...lol)

Just go out there and enjoy!


Cheers
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Reply By: Member - Alex B - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 16:35

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 16:35
Hi Willem
Thanks for sharing your trip with us.
Very enjoyable reading
Cheers
Alex B
AnswerID: 322990

Follow Up By: Willem - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:45

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:45
Glad you enjoyed it, Alex



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Reply By: Member - Royce- Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 17:59

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 17:59
A great read Willem. Sitting in cold Gippsland [It was beaut day but cold tonight], it has made my evening to travel outback for a few minutes.

Cheers Royce
AnswerID: 322998

Follow Up By: Willem - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:49

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:49
G'day Royce

I keep on planning new adventures. But with the cost of fuel these days trips may grow further between times. Still we are planning a 3 month departure from these southern climes next year in winter. For that to happen we have to stay home for 6 months to save up. Hope I don't go mad in that time...lol


Cheers
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Reply By: Member - barry F (NSW) - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 18:20

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 18:20
Thanks Willem for that, it was a good read about some country that I'm unlikely to ever see unless I go along as baggage with some one as experienced as you. Maybe If I open the gates & bring a case of fire water? Cheers & best wishes
AnswerID: 323001

Follow Up By: Willem - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:50

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:50
Barry

A case of Firewater will buy you transport to delightful places....LOL



Cheers
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Reply By: lancie49 - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 20:05

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 20:05
What a great read.
Thanks for taking the time to share that with us Willem.
It's gonna be a long time before we're in a position to do a trip like that, but you have just taken us to an area of this great country that we do hope to visit some day.

Thanks again mate.

Lance and Anne
AnswerID: 323011

Follow Up By: Willem - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:51

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:51
Hi Lance and Anne

Glad you enjoyed the words

Its all in the planning and your time will arrive too soon :-)


Cheers
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FollowupID: 590083

Reply By: Member - Littleborgy (SA) - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:21

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:21
Great read Willem, thanks for sharing.

Reading stuff like this makes me want to pack the GQ up with camping gear & get out there away from all the stresses of the city... Oh well, my day will come... One day...

Cheers, Brad
AnswerID: 323032

Follow Up By: Willem - Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:53

Saturday, Aug 30, 2008 at 22:53
G'day Brad

Yep, I don't think that I would be able to cope with the stresses of living in the Big Smoke. Your chance will come when holidays come around again.

Say G'day to all the Borgy's from us, when you see them.


Cheers
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Reply By: Rod, Sydney - Sunday, Aug 31, 2008 at 06:52

Sunday, Aug 31, 2008 at 06:52
Well done Willem. Thanks for this yarn and the many previously - you have a nice non-judgemental way of writing. Did you find a solution to any of the map issues?
Rod, Perth

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Follow Up By: Willem - Sunday, Aug 31, 2008 at 08:41

Sunday, Aug 31, 2008 at 08:41
Hi Rod

I am going to make contact with the publishers of Natmap Raster this week.

In May we traversed a remote area in the Great Sandy Desert. Judging the Topography of the Maps by the height of the dunes we took a bearing to drive through country which seemed to be easier to negotiate. The dune lines on the map stated Average Height 5 metres. When we got to this point the dunes were at least 20 metres if not more, in height and there was no way that we were going to be able to cross over them. This necessitated driving over some extremely rough terrain and making a detour of some 20 kilometres. Ofcourse we were well prepared and managed this without too much drama but the point is that the maps are incorrect! And this from a Federal Government Instrumentality!

Cheers
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Reply By: Best Off Road - Sunday, Aug 31, 2008 at 07:25

Sunday, Aug 31, 2008 at 07:25
A really good read as always.

Jim.

AnswerID: 323063

Follow Up By: Willem - Sunday, Aug 31, 2008 at 08:42

Sunday, Aug 31, 2008 at 08:42
Thanks Jim


Cheers
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Reply By: Steve - Sunday, Aug 31, 2008 at 10:32

Sunday, Aug 31, 2008 at 10:32
thanks for that, Willem. Informative and enjoyable.

Whets the appetite

;)
AnswerID: 323094

Reply By: dizzy - Monday, Sep 01, 2008 at 01:03

Monday, Sep 01, 2008 at 01:03
I struck the same problem with the 250k maps out behind Nullagine here in W.A. Wreckon the maps were done when Adam was a boy and all they did was to change the date.
The rig

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Reply By: arbe - Monday, Sep 01, 2008 at 10:11

Monday, Sep 01, 2008 at 10:11
Willem, you have a great nack of firing up the belly and getting out there again - thanks for the great read. Was down that way 4 months ago but went more east for a first time visit to Mutawintji NP - probably our favourite stopover on our 4 week run.
We also went west of the SC H'way at Milparinka to Theldarpa, Mt Sturt but next time you route looks the go - trouble is it is such a big land I fear that there is not going to be enough time to see just a fraction.
Oh well, will soon be inspaning the TRAYON again but this time it will be Cape York - at the end of March - (though before that there will be plenty of 'minor' trips around home - Ballina)

Totsiens,

Richard.
AnswerID: 323227

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