Advice on desert trip planning

Submitted: Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 14:12
ThreadID: 81371 Views:5591 Replies:5 FollowUps:8
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My wife and I decided a couple of days ago to do a little (or not so little) trip through some of the desert parts of Australia. Have travelled the east coast heaps ever since getting our 4x4 around 10 years ago but never been through the centre of Aus. Have done Cape York, Fraser and more and looking to show the kids the other aspects of what our country has to offer.

Our initial thoughts are:

Home (woy woy) up to Uluru at a reasonable pace. Happy to do long drive days so hope to do this in 3 days. From Uluru we will then slow the pace significantly so we can enjoy the sites and trip. We might stop in Coober Pedy for a day or 2 to check out the town as we wont be going back though that way.

From Uluru we plan to follow the basic plan of

Uluru down to Marie and on to Oodnadatta. From Oodnadatta we will cross the simpson desert to Birdsville. From Birdsville we will head to Innamincka via the the track that heads through Cordillo Downs. From Innamincka we will head to Cameron Corner. Once at Cameron Corner we have two options. We can either head home or head south down through the Flinders Rangers then home. It just depends on how much time we spend on the trip before getting to Cameron Corner.

Now, from home to home I have a total of at least 4 weeks leave, maybe 5 weeks if I'm lucky. Keeping this in mind what basic itinerary would you recomend and what should we not miss along the way. I have a few books and mag articles to read to get some info from but nothing beats advice from those that have bee through the areas before.

Any suggestions welcome no matter how small.

We plan to bush camp as much as possible to when referring to towns above, we may not actually stay in town. I have mentioned them just to show the basis route we plan to take.
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Reply By: Mitch - Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 14:26

Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 14:26
Recommend caravan park in Coober Pedy and nearby cheap fuel at the bulk supply(almost opposite the drive in theatre). Also favor the Painted Desert as part of the trip to Oodnadatta. If the rains still persist would recommend some of the farm tracks around the Flinders Ranges - Echo Camp at Arkaroola, Mulga View near Chalmbers Gorge and Star Trek at Willow Creek.

Cheers
Mitch
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Follow Up By: Member - Stephen L (Clare SA) - Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 19:21

Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 19:21
Hi Mitch
We used to go to the Mobil Depot as well, but when we went there about 4 weeks ago, the whole place was closed down and a large for sale sign on the front gates. Even the Bulls Depot was closed, so that only left the 2 in the main street and the one (dearer one) coming into town.

Cheers

Stephen
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Follow Up By: Mitch - Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 21:15

Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 21:15
Stephen

Was in CP on 13/8/10 and noted in my diary that fuel was much cheaper in that Bulk Area near the Big 4 CP and drive-in. Worth checking either way.

Regards
Mitch
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Follow Up By: mikehzz - Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 22:37

Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 22:37
It's only a Sky Treck but it's still excellent :-)
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Follow Up By: Mitch - Friday, Sep 17, 2010 at 12:01

Friday, Sep 17, 2010 at 12:01
Mikehzz

Until I try the rest of the farm treks Sky Trek will be regarded as the best.
.
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Follow Up By: mikehzz - Saturday, Sep 18, 2010 at 07:52

Saturday, Sep 18, 2010 at 07:52
You said Star Trek above and I think you need warp drive for that. Impulse engines are fine for Sky Trek ;-)
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Reply By: stew1978 - Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 14:46

Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 14:46
I should add that we are not planning to leave until July/August next year. No set date yet.
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Reply By: Member - John and Val - Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 15:13

Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 15:13
Hi Stew,

I am currently putting up blogs covering our first trip to the red centre (in 2001), so you can have a read of where we went here and the blogs that follow on from it. Still have one or two more to get up. Also in our other blogs you can follow where we went in that part of the world in '08 and '09.

Searching other's blogs will give you lots more info as well.

FWIW i reckon that Uluru is one of the least interesting parts of the red centre. There is heaps to see in the east and west Macdonnells where you could spend a lot of time. Finke Gorge, Chambers Pillar, Old Andado are other top spots. Getting there via the Oodnadatta Track is great and would allow you to take in the Breakaways, Painted desert, Lake Eyre, Mound Springs, Dalhousie Springs, Old Ghan etc.

There is no difficult driving in any of this, but you and your vehicle wouldneed to be prepared for gravel road travel.

4 or 5 weeks will be just enough time, but suggest don't try to rush getting there - better to take a few extra days and enjoy the adventure and the many amazing things you will see along the way. Its very different from what you have seen along the east coast - allow yourself time to adjust and to take it all in.

Cheers,

Val
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Reply By: Member Brian (Gold Coast) - Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 18:09

Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 18:09
Hi Stew,
We have recently returned from a wonderful 7 week adventure out that way. Unfortunately it wasn't enough time! We spent 3 nights in Coober Pedy, but should have spent a week IMO. Likewise Alice Springs, we plan to be back out Alice way in 2012. Uluru & Kata Tjuta are well worth the effort IMO, we took a helicopter flight over them, that was spectacular! On the Mereenie Loop area, there are a lot of wonderful sights to see..... we stopped at Glen Helen Gorge and Kings Canyon, time being our enemy on this trip and hence the plane to return. Kings Canyon is an awesome experience, the rim walk gave me a deeper appreciation of why the aboriginal people hold these places in such regard! We stopped in at Kings Creek Station, didn't stay there, we free camped down the road a bit. But we did camel rides at Kings Creek Station and learnt a lot about the area. Also the owner does a lot for the local community, it's a great story that needs to be heard. They also cook a wicked Camel Burger! It's a place I wouldn't hesitate to return to!

Your route says "From Uluru we plan to follow the basic plan of

Uluru down to Marie and on to Oodnadatta. From Oodnadatta we will cross the simpson desert to Birdsville. From Birdsville we will head to Innamincka via the the track that heads through Cordillo Downs. From Innamincka we will head to Cameron Corner. Once at Cameron Corner we have two options. We can either head home or head south down through the Flinders Rangers then home. It just depends on how much time we spend on the trip before getting to Cameron Corner. "
Seems to be back tracking a bit there..... Uluru to Marree to Oodnaddatta then the desert... you might want to streamline that a bit. Perhaps do Marree/Coober Pedy/Oodnaddatta/Uluru?
Anyways... IMO you can't miss out there... there's a LOT to see, and it doesn't really matter where you go, you'll find the most awesome scenery everywhere you look.

Cheers

Brian

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Follow Up By: stew1978 - Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 20:59

Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 20:59
In relation to the back tracking I think you misunderstand my route because I had a typo. When I referred to Marie. It should have said MARLA which is on the Stuart Highway. Does that make more sense?
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Follow Up By: mikehzz - Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 22:35

Thursday, Sep 16, 2010 at 22:35
It's all great but my suggestion would be to go the Oodnadatta track down to Marree and then the Birdsville track instead of the full desert run. You can always do a day trip way out over the biggest dunes and back from Birdsville anyway. Also, from Alice I would go down the Old Ghan to Maryvale and Chambers Pillar. Mt Dare is the next stop then Dalhousie, Oodnadatta, William ck, Lake Eyre and Marree. Absolutely stacks of iconic things to see going that way.
The good thing is that it doesn't matter which way you go, you will want to go back and see what you missed last time because it's all fantastic. Mike
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Follow Up By: Member Brian (Gold Coast) - Friday, Sep 17, 2010 at 05:18

Friday, Sep 17, 2010 at 05:18
Stew,
Yes... that does make more sense.... I didn't even thought of Marla.

Cheers

Brian

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Reply By: Member - Duncs - Friday, Sep 17, 2010 at 08:46

Friday, Sep 17, 2010 at 08:46
Perhaps this will help with your planning.

We visited the Centre a few years ago while we were living in Broken Hill.

Like you we wanted to get to the Centre so did a big day to start.Broken Hill to Coober Pedy is about 1000km. It's not a difficult drive but we arrived quite tired. We stayed at the Underground Motel.

Next day we had a look around town, did an underground tour and had look at the Breakaways. Could have spent more time but we got a pretty good taste of the area. We then went on and spent that night at Erldunda.

Day three we set off about 9 and had lunch at Rainbow Valley. We had planned to go east from there and then south to Chambers Pillar. Because it was so hot (over 40C in October) we went back down the highway to get cold drinks at the road house. Then we went across the Hahn River stock Route and south to Chambers. We got there early enough to have a good look around and take some sunset photos. Next morning we were up early to get sunrise photos and have another look at the Pillar in different light.

We took our time travelling along the Old Gahn rail line stopping to look at things that took our eye and arrived in Alice early to mid afternoon.

We based ourselves in Alice and travelled to the East and West McDonald's as well as having a good look around the town. After about a week we set off west, driving past all the things we had already seen. This allowed us to travel further and get away from crowds. Despite a reasonably leisurely pace we made it to Palm Valley for the night. We did arrive a bit late and ended up in the overflow camp area which was OK but not great.

We then went to Kings Canyon and spent 2 nights before setting off for the Rock where we spent 3 nights.

We travelled back to Broken Hill via the Simpson, Birdsville, Innamincka, Cameron's Corner and Tib.

That took us three weeks and was more driving than I would have liked. You are planning to see a lot more and you have a lot more miles to drive (Woy Woy to Broken Hill is about 1200km each way). I think you need every bit of the 4 weeks you are talking about, the 5 would be better and 6 would be better still.

Deadlines are IMO a curse but we all have them. The trick is to set them far enough off so that you can remain relaxed when things go wrong or change. We got rain while we were in the Simpson and that cost us time. Fortunately we had planned to arrive home with a few days to spare before we had to get back to work etc. we simply had a day less at home before the world attacked us again. Plan for such contingencies.

Plan well and then be prepared to throw your plan away if the situation warrants that.

Have a great trip
Duncs
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