Sunday 4th July, 2010
Bee Gorge, Hamersley Ranges WA
We emerged into a gloomy morning. While it was heavily overcast with heavy pregnant clouds, the rain had largely held off during the night and the weather was showing some signs of
clearing off on the horizon. Our first destination of the day was
Hamersley Gorge a few kilometres along the Nanutarra Road.
![A man who likes his comfort (and has been known to save it for days)]()
A man who likes his comfort (and has been known to save it for days)
Our early start saw us the first to arrive for the day so we wasted no time in wandering down into
the gorge (all the better for photographic opportunities). The tortured, twisted folds of
rock that make up
the gorge walls bear testament to some pretty impressive upheavals early on in our geological history. After exploring the main pools and falls area, we decided to push south along
the gorge in an attempt to find “
the grotto” or Fern Grotto as it is also known.
![Hamersley Gorge]()
Hamersley Gorge
There is no actual path to
the Grotto that is easily discernable, rather a series of footprints here and there. We ended up climbing down some of the steep sided faces of
the gorge and then picking our way through the jumble of deep red boulders trying to keep our feet dry. Scott (aka Grizzly Adams) was moving
well ahead out front to such an extent that we slower bods down the back could no longer see or hear him. Thankfully we found him at the narrow cleft that conceals
fern pool, a clear deep
pool of water surrounded by sheer walls and overhung by ferns and trailing root systems from the trees way above. A beautiful location and
well worth the walk. It was a pity it wasn’t a bit hotter or I’d have been in there exploring. A mission for another time perhaps.
![Main pool at the bottom of Hamersley Gorge]()
Main pool at the bottom of Hamersley Gorge
After extricating ourselves from the
Hamersley Gorge, it was out along the dusty Nanutarra and Munjina Roads, firstly down through the narrow and winding
Rio Tinto Gorge and it’s spectacular vistas and then onto the Munjina and east along the Hamersley’s towards the
Auski Roadhouse and Wittenoom.
![Rock folded like crepe paper]()
Rock folded like crepe paper
Both Dirt roads were in excellent condition although you had to watch the dips and creek crossings and wandering cattle on the Munjina. The layered ramparts of Mount King and the Hamersley Ranges are split by Mount King
Gorge,
Range Gorge and then
Bee Gorge. Each rocky terrace is a dark, almost black colour and there’s a certain gloom about the area, despite it being spectacular in it’s own right. Personally I think it’s because this road travels the razor sharp boundary between the magnificent Hamersley’s on the south, and the flat, cattle lands to the north. Of course this wasn’t helped by the overcast day but that was the feeling I got while traversing the area. It was only a short 50 kilometre hop from
Hamersley Gorge to the
ruins of Wittenoom.
![Michael "the mountain Goat" J - Oh shit...what have I got myself into!!]()
Michael "the mountain Goat" J - Oh shit...what have I got myself into!!
![The twisted walls of Hamersley Gorge]()
The twisted walls of Hamersley Gorge
The remains of Wittenoom sit at the mouth of
Wittenoom Gorge. Crocidolite (blue asbestos) was mined in Wittenoom from 1938 to 1966 when the
mine was closed. Originally owned by Lang Hancock, the discoverer of iron ore in the
Pilbara, at one stage the
mine was Australia’s only asbestos supplier, mining around 160,000 tonnes. Up to 20,000 people lived and worked in Wittenoom until research into lung cancer, asbestosis and mesothelioma was linked to the blue fibrous dust produced at the
mine. It has been suggested that mining in Wittenoom ceased due to commercial viability rather than health concerns, not impossible to believe back in 1966.
![Hamersley Gorge]()
Hamersley Gorge
![The congested southern end of Hamersley Gorge]()
The congested southern end of Hamersley Gorge
Turning to Wiki; “Belonging to the amphibole family, Crocidolite fibers are finely textured and hair-like, occurring in naturally formed bundles, and are long and straight, like amosite. These straight, needle-like fibers are easy to inhale and will remain in the lungs indefinitely. Indeed, Crocidolite is the most hazardous of the amphibole asbestos family. Scientists have noted that about 18% of those who have mined this form of asbestos have died of mesothelioma. Traditionally mined in South Africa, Bolivia, and Western Australia, studies have also shown that individuals living in the area of the former mines are inclined to suffer ill effects of asbestos inhalation as
well.”
![The Grotto - Hamersley Gorge]()
The Grotto - Hamersley Gorge
![The Bolitho Road into Wittenoom Gorge]()
The Bolitho Road into Wittenoom Gorge
Today most of the original buildings have been removed. The main street is barren but can just be identified by road markings and signs. A few dilapidated houses line the avenue entering the town and an interesting
rock and gem
shop opens by appointment. The town was de-gazetted in 2006 and is officially no more. Road signs showing the distance and direction to Wittenoom have been blackened out and the name has allegedly been removed from official maps although we had no problems finding it on the 2008 versions of both Hema Maps and Natmaps. The WA state government no longer supplies power to the town and a Telstra supplied (but non-operational) solar phone booth at the towns entrance is the only physical link with the outside world.
![Naturalists Galore - Wittenoom Gorge]()
Naturalists Galore - Wittenoom Gorge
![The Bolitho Road into Wittenoom Gorge]()
The Bolitho Road into Wittenoom Gorge
Our drive into
Wittenoom Gorge followed Bolitho Road, a now crumbling single lane road that wound into
the gorge for about 6 kilometres. You won’t find any literature or tour guides encouraging you to visit the area or pointing out the sites along the way (see last lines of the Wiki paragraph!). The power of the water rushing out of
the gorge is apparent in the manner in which many of the concrete slabs laid as causeways across the creek have been ripped up and washed downstream. Majestic gums line the creek as you push into the range. We passed several large waterholes along the way which looked to have remained popular
camp sites.
![Rainbow Beeaters en-masse]()
Rainbow Beeaters en-masse
![Rainbow Bee Eaters - Wittenoom Gorge]()
Rainbow Bee Eaters - Wittenoom Gorge
The tailings from the
mine are visible as you pass and asbestos can be found if you simply look at the rocks about your feet. Many display the blue fibrous banding of crocidolite right through
the rock. Fibres are easily teased from these specimens and I must confess that one of our number looked decidedly uncomfortable being in here (harden the hell up Scotty. You’ve got to die of something man!) At one point we passed a colourful line of Bee Eaters sitting snugly together on a low branch in almost perfect symmetry.
![Crocodolite - Wittenoom Gorge]()
Crocodolite - Wittenoom Gorge
![Crocidolite (Blue Asbestos) - Witenoom Gorge]()
Crocidolite (Blue Asbestos) - Witenoom Gorge
The road ends at the
old mine managers house which is virtually only a
rock retaining wall and slab these days. The road used to continue on to the main
mine area and then into Karijini but has been deliberately made impassable. We had a good wander around this area and down into the creek bed before returning and attempting to locate one of the old tracks that wound out of
the gorge to the west and into the neighbouring gorges to the west. Our track followed the course of a wide stony creek gradually getting more confined as our height above the valley floor increased. I was fortunate enough to have stopped to
check out another catwalk track from the comfort of the trailer drawbar so was a good way back in friendly country when the others called that they could proceed no further. Wisely they turned about and retraced their tracks down to where I had set up for lunch.
!["If I can only hold my breath for 2 hours...I sooo don't want to be here!"]()
"If I can only hold my breath for 2 hours...I sooo don't want to be here!"
Lunch concluded we decided to try and locate a track in to
Bee gorge with a view to setting up
camp for the day. Back through Wittenoom we drove on the remaining strips of tarmac that were once the avenues of a
well laid out town. Some old signs remained forlornly naming a street where kids once played in the
bright West Australian sun enjoying the halcyon days of the 60’s.
![The site of the old mine managers house - Wittenoom Gorge]()
The site of the old mine managers house - Wittenoom Gorge
A ghost town now for sure. For us it was backtracking to a point 7 km to the west where we found a rough track heading in towards the ranges. This skirted the range for a few kilometres to the broad opening of
Bee Gorge. Again ,
Bee Gorge appeared very similar to
Wittenoom Gorge as we pushed in a few kilometres and under the shade of some gums, located a high bank to set up
camp. It was a very confined spit of land to
camp on but with the afternoon still overcast and rain threatening, being above the creek floor was an important safety consideration. The late afternoon was spent unloading and preparing the quads. A magnificent fire was prepared in the creek bed where we enjoyed a meal and planning session with a jar or two before retiring.
![Sign post at Wittenoom]()
Sign post at Wittenoom
![Lunch break in a side gorge]()
Lunch break in a side gorge
![The old phone box at Wittenoom]()
The old phone box at Wittenoom