Gibb River Road, Must see Gorges

I am wanting to do the Kimberley's in the next year or so and after just watching the DVD C/T Australia from the mag what a great intro,so i was just asking the Question ,what are the must see Gorges to swim in and camp at and if you were looking to base your self for 2-3 days what water hole{gorge} would it be,and would my 91 NH Paj handle the Kimberleys O.K and Suspension wise what would you recommed replacing with new parts as i know it would take a pounding,Alot of questions i know but you have to ask right,hope you can help aspeacially the one's that have been there done that.Thanks G.D
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Reply By: Motherhen - Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 18:47

Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 18:47
Hi Greendog

The Kimberley, in particular the Gibb River Road trip, has to be the best of the best Australia has to offer. Check out my blogs here for 2008 for a taste. My favourite camp was on the King Edward River on the Mitchell Plateau Road. We camped right at the water's edge and the flowing river was lovely for swimming. Many of the other gorges involve a walk to the waterfalls and swimming holes.

How's this for a perfect campsite?

Image Could Not Be Found

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Follow Up By: Member - Toby R (WA) - Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 20:13

Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 20:13
This is one of my favorite camping area's also so much better than the dusty noisey camp at Mitchell Plateau iv'e used this spot three times in recent years.
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Follow Up By: GREENDOG ! - Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 20:26

Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 20:26
Looks just Perfect, thanks mate. cheers GD
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Follow Up By: Member - Toby R (WA) - Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 20:37

Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 20:37
I found the Ron and Viv Moon Kimberley Guide book very helpful it covers almost everything you could ask and more good luck with your trip and I'm sure your going to enjoy every minute of it.
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Follow Up By: braggy - Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 21:46

Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 21:46
New managers at King Edward River campgrounds this year and no camping on the river side of the road, still a good spot though.

Cheers Ken
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Follow Up By: Motherhen - Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 22:06

Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 22:06
What is the fee there now Ken? It was free and unsupervised in 2008 but I understand that fees have since been implemented. $10 per person per night?

Like Toby, we loved it and stayed an extra day just because it was so nice there. On our return from Kalumburu we went in and spent yet another night before going on only 100 kilometres to Drysdale for the following night. It was always pretty packed out by nightfall, but the people we met were wonderful, and everyone pulled together to help out anyone with a problem. We also had Ron Moon’s book for our Kimberley travels.

It is an easy day trip to Mitchell Falls, and we decided not to take the caravan there and back, as did all the others who left their campers for the day trip. We took our camping gear, expecting to stay the night at the Falls car park camp, but after a full day walking to and at Mitchell Falls, we got the last chopper back to the car park and still had enough daylight to drive ‘home’ to the lovely riverside camp.

Mh
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Reply By: Member - barbara M (NSW) - Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 19:28

Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 19:28
Greendog,
We too are also planning to do this trip, maybe we will come across each other so will be watching this thread also
barb
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Follow Up By: GREENDOG ! - Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 20:29

Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 20:29
Yes mate it won't be next year but in 2113 it will be all go there won't be any thing holding me back,and now is the time to start plaining bit by bit so you don't leave any thing out.cheer's GD
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Reply By: Member - Josh- Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 21:16

Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 21:16
We camped at Manning Gorge for a few days and loved it. There is an amzing swimming hole right where you camp and heaps to explore. Then you do the walk into the actual gorge.Image Could Not Be Found
Tunnel creek is a must. Winjana is a great spot to explore and amazing to see the colour at sunset.
Mitchell falls in a must see.
We found they were all great in there own way so see as many as you can.
Will your car make....depends how you drive and if the graders have been there recently. We got over taken by a comodore with 4 black fellas in it doing about 100 km/h when we were there.
We also met a guy who said it was the roughest road he'd ever been on and turned around and went home. My point is if you have the time and take it easy you will make but if your pushing for time and don't slow down you will have trouble now matter how you prepare.
Drop your tyre pressure as well to help with the little bumps..

Josh
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Reply By: Been-Everywhereman - Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 22:18

Sunday, Oct 30, 2011 at 22:18
Well well well,,,,The pretty boy of the truckies world....
In my opinion every gorge is worth seeing but after a while they do get easier to drive past,,, but having said that i didnt drive past any and enjoyed each and every one for its similar but quite often different reasons....

As stated Manning Gorge is very interesting and a must stop.
Elquestro is a nice place....

Just allow plenty of time to turn at every point of interest.

You old Paj will be fine,, but dont make the mistake of trying to surf the corrugations or you will be sorry...
Just plod along and let the millionaires spend their coin on un-neccessary repairs.

Take a spare front and rear shocker, just standard second hand are fine....

We turned at Alice and saw Wolfe Creek on the way and also took in Tunnel creek and Windjana gorge.....

Mitchell falls is amazing but quite a walk to get there....

Cheers Big Ears... Your friendly driving instructor...

AnswerID: 468908

Follow Up By: GREENDOG ! - Saturday, Nov 05, 2011 at 18:18

Saturday, Nov 05, 2011 at 18:18
LOL, You wacker just thought i'd ask the question mate,thanks for your adive.cheer's GD
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Reply By: Members Pa & Ma. - Monday, Oct 31, 2011 at 13:01

Monday, Oct 31, 2011 at 13:01
Hi GREENDOG,
We've recently returned from there.
We thought that Elquestro was expensive & over rated when we were there in 2001.
Emma gorge was absolutely magnificent but a long walk in with stone & boulder hopping. Well worth it!
I agree with Mother hen as far as the camp site on the King Edward River.
Manning gorge camp-site was really good. The walk in to the gorge is easier than the walk out.
We did the trip from the other end this year, we did it to where we stopped in 2001.
Holidays with some long service leave.
I found the walk into Mitchell falls difficult , I have crummy legs. A lot of boulder hopping( in my case crawling!).
The rocks in the crossing to see the actual Falls are so slippery I wished I had taken 2 sturdy walking sticks.
You can get a chopper back to camp.
The roads weren't too bad many had just been graded because of the huge floods this year.
Too be continued....














AnswerID: 468935

Follow Up By: Members Pa & Ma. - Monday, Oct 31, 2011 at 15:22

Monday, Oct 31, 2011 at 15:22
Hi GREENDOG,
The second part of my reply is still trying to get through. I've asked for some help with it.
Dimond Gorge is apparently well worth a visit. We didn't go in . It's one of the more difficult ones near Mornington Wilderness camp.
I've been searching for the information on it because I think this is the one that IS in plans to be flooded for a dam!
What a waste!
The pictures of it in "The Gibb River Road "book from the tourist centre are speccy .
The beautiful crossing of the Pentecost River is where the salt water meets the fresh.! Although you do see fishermen along the waters edge ,there is a chance of Salties at this crossing.
The scenery here is breath taking, but If you have to walk it be careful & take in the scenery after & before you cross.

The midges at the Derby Pier at sunset will make a mess of those who are susceptible .
Bell Gorge is a good swimming hole., but there are Gorges with better scenery.
Safe travels.
Bye for now Ma.




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Reply By: vk1dx - Monday, Oct 31, 2011 at 14:43

Monday, Oct 31, 2011 at 14:43
This is not a swimming nor gorge spot but.

I suggest that you go for a drive around the Cockburn Range on the Karunji Track. I was told that part of the movie Australia was filmed around the northern edges. The scenery certainly looks the same as in the movie. We got permission and a map from Emma Gorge resort near the El Questro turn off. It took most of a day. If you time it you could start in the morning with the sun shining on the eastern side and finish with a cuppa near to the Pentecost River, watch the crocs, with the sun shining on the western, most spectacular side. Worth a trip while you stay at Home Valley. Lots cheaper than El Questro ($66 to camp for one night - Ouch).

Karunji Track photos, map and information

The link includes a map, instructions and some photos including one photo of Baz Lurhman standing close to where we stopped for a photo shoot of our own.

Phil



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Follow Up By: Members Pa & Ma. - Monday, Oct 31, 2011 at 15:34

Monday, Oct 31, 2011 at 15:34
This is true, another thing we cut out because of time. Yes this was used in the Movie & you could spend 12 mnths up in this glorious part of the world.
Bye again Ma, Sorry, I can't help myself ! we've just got back. You will also see this Formation at the pente cost River crossing It's just Magic.
Take care, safe travels.
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Follow Up By: Member - Vivien C (VIC) - Tuesday, Nov 01, 2011 at 08:09

Tuesday, Nov 01, 2011 at 08:09
Totally agree about the Old Karunjie Road as it was one of the best days we had on our last trip up to the Kimberley.

We started just after the Pentecost River crossing and following the directions in Ron Moon's book made our way around through some beautiful country and then across the salt pans to Wyndham. Really recommend the drive as it wasn't hard just slow going in places, some bull dust and wash outs but nothing too difficult.

My favourite gorge is Galvan's Gorge. Its just a few minutes walk off the Gibb RR and is a perfect gem. There is a boab overlooking the falls and the pool is edged with ferns and trees. A perfect spot for a swim.

Besides Galvan's my list would be:Bell Gorge (especially if you climb around to the plunge pool), Manning Gorge (the walk is so worth it), Windjana Gorge with the magnificent cliffs edging the camp ground, Mitchell Falls and Kalumburu (don't miss Father Anscar's tour of the museum), Dimond Gorge out at Old Mornington, Charnley River Station and Dillie Gorge canoeing, El Questro has a lot to offer despite being a bit pricey we all felt it was well worth it. We walked/climbed/clambered, all the way in to the end of El Questro Gorge which was a tough but fantastic day, went up to Branco's Look Out for an amazing sunset, swam in Zebedee Hot Springs and we only touched the surface of what there is to do. We camped at Home Valley which was quite nice, Mt Hart was really good but not sure whether its open still, Ellenbrae Station is great, especially the scones, jam and cream! The camp site is good too with a big stone building containing table etc bbq and a flush toilet and hot shower (if you light the donkey). Really good spot.

There are so many great places...you will enjoy finding your own favourites I'm sure.

Viv
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Follow Up By: Members Pa & Ma. - Tuesday, Nov 01, 2011 at 11:27

Tuesday, Nov 01, 2011 at 11:27
<Mt. Hart is still operating but sadly Taffy & Kim are gone, They did a wonderful job there.
I think it's Charnley River which has been turned into a wildlife sanctuary, it's a long way in & a lovely camp area. No meals provided any more.
Go up to Kalumburu & find lovely camp at McGowan's Island(not an Island) & take picnic lunch to Honeymoon Bay.

Stay at the big 4 Kununurra the one out of town is crammed in or it was in 2001.
Drysdale Station was great for a break & the burgers were superb.
Ellenbrae was a nice camp-site.
Don't rush it & watch out for speeding drivers on the wrong side of the road.
The G.R.R. is noted for these people.Take care with small kids, Come back for the rest of the trip if you have to,like we did if you're pushed for time. You've gone all that way & there is just so much to see.
Enjoy & have a safe trip.
Bye Ma.
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Reply By: gjcumming - Monday, Oct 31, 2011 at 19:55

Monday, Oct 31, 2011 at 19:55
Hello GD.
East to west:
El Questro station black cockatoo campground - Short easy 4x4drive & easy walk to El Questro gorge **** (wet & lush). Short easy 4x4 & easy walk to Moonshine gorge & backwater ***. Short easy 4x4 & easy walk to Zebedee springs (bathing) before noon ***. Short 4x4 drive to no walking to nearby Chamberlain gorge accessable by boat but close enough for a distant look. Short hard 4x4 engaged, no walk to Branco's lookout over Pentacost river ****. Day trip back out to Emma gorge and falls (52km return drive) long medium walk (c c cold swimming) ****.

Back out on GRR/Kalumburu road: Mitchel falls. Short swim & meduim walk Manning gorge & falls **** (swimming). Barnett river gorge, easy 4x4 access, medium walk (swimming) **. Galvan gorge & falls (swimming) right on GRR, short walk ****.Adcock gorge & falls 5km side trip, easy walk (swampy) *. Silent grove NP campground, Bells creek gorge & falls, short drive & walk (swimming) *****.Lennard river gorge, short easy 4x4 side trip, hard walk (swimming if game, shear cliffs (unnerving) ***. Fitzroy/Lennard road :Windjana gorge NP campground, short easy walk to gorge (freshwater crocs, no swimming) ****.Tunnel creek, short drive, cave water walking ***. Depending on your direction of travel, backtrack to GRR & Derby or continue to Fitzroy crossing & Geigie gorge, medium walk or boat trip ***.

We did everything but Mitchell falls because that track was in need of a grade and had broken several 4x4's & trailers at that time.
Enjoy your trip
Regards: Grant
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Reply By: i'machocoholic - Monday, Oct 31, 2011 at 20:06

Monday, Oct 31, 2011 at 20:06
Hi Greendog,

We did the Gibb River Road for around 4 weeks earlier this year. Many people do it in a lot less time given the whole leg is only around 640kms, but there are so many gorges to see you really need to give them time (in my opinion).

Just some comments:

Roads:
The road was like a highway this year (we did west to east) - the worst spots for corrugations were around El Questro.

We sat on 80kms per hour (average) - there were many others that would fly past us. Actually, I thought a lot of drivers were really selfish, I think they forgot that "it's all about the journey, not the destination", and would belt past you like they were driving at Bathurst.

It's not driving on the GRR that is difficult, it can be some of the roads into the gorges and/or stations which give the car a bit of a workout, and as road conditions change from year to year, who knows what it will be like when you get there....

Also each person's interpretation of what road conditions are like is an individual thing - what I think is easy you may not or vice versa.

Camping:
I wouldn't recommend basing yourself at any one particular gorge, I loved every single one that we could visit and stay (not all were open given the wet wet)...it really depends on how much time you have, but you really want to take your time if you can.

We have done plenty of travelling this year and the road to Cape York was 10 times worse than the GRR.

This was my third trip up that way, and whilst wanting to use Ron & Viv Moon's book to find campsites, unfortunately just about every single spot we chose had been washed away from this year's wet and the tracks to campsites they wrote about no longer existed. So whilst some information in the book is useful, don't count on using their book for free camping.

Whilst I could write absolutely heaps about the Kimberley (my absolute most favourite place in Australia), I wouldn't know where to stop! You're welcome to read our blog at Grant and Linda which has stories of our travels including the GRR, and if you have any questions from what you read, don't hesitate to ask.

It's an amazing place, and although we haven't even finished our around Oz trip yet, I'm already in the planning stages of a trip back up there next year....just don't tell my other half!!!!

AnswerID: 468962

Reply By: Member - John and Val - Monday, Oct 31, 2011 at 21:30

Monday, Oct 31, 2011 at 21:30
Hi Greendog,

Have a look at this website here. There are a couple of publications mentioned at the bottom. We had an early version of these and it was very helpful.

You could also have a look at our blog from our 2008 trip here.

There are many wonderful things to see and do in the Kimberley. Some of our favourites: Mitchell Plateau and the King Edward River campground and going on the the Mitchell Falls. The helicopter is really worth the $$$ even if you just do a short flight. Mornington was also great - we loved the scenic drive in with lots of boabs to see, and the swimming holes on the river. Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek are "must see". I could go on but all the gorges are different, but as others have said, if you try to do it all too quickly you will find yourself becoming "gorged out".

Cheers,

Val.
J and V
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Reply By: Muntoo - Tuesday, Nov 01, 2011 at 10:31

Tuesday, Nov 01, 2011 at 10:31
Yep, the Kimberley.

Gods Country, proud to be born and bred here.

Gibb Road is fine mate, long as the right preperatio on vehicle is taken, keep speeds to about 80km/h, drop tyres slightly, not too much if loaded up though.

Chances of getting a flat are the worst from Wyndham end to the Pentecost river. Mainly because of volume of traffic to El Questro and the amount of grading it receives sheers the rocks and leaves them very sharp. Had many flats in this area over the years.

Free camping is pretty non existant these days.

Just make sure your vehicle is up to scratch and you'll be fine mate. Unless of course you beat the grader there, then its a totally different story.
AnswerID: 468998

Follow Up By: Robin Miller - Thursday, Nov 03, 2011 at 11:38

Thursday, Nov 03, 2011 at 11:38
Hi Muntoo

Note you comment about lacking of free camping.

I'm sure there are nice places up there but if your not effectively able to do them then it really limits the area.

But this also depends on what you like to do.

We did a run up the main road and around through Kunnanara after driving the CSR crecently , and we found almost no real 4wd tracks , lack of free camping areas and little opportunity for fires etc - even Wolfe creek was posted as no fires.


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Follow Up By: Muntoo - Friday, Nov 04, 2011 at 12:50

Friday, Nov 04, 2011 at 12:50
Lack of real 4wd tracks?

Mate, you obviously didnt loook hard enough. Theres tracks around here that havent been driven in years, never seen a grader and get washed out every year.

Lack of free camping?

Not in the Kimberley. Only the Gibb Road. I've camped all over the Kimberley and the only place i have had to pay was on Gibb Road. But they supplied showers and toilets so thats ok, plus its a national park.

Lack of fires, never come across that. BUT, in the dry season its for everyones good. Not sure if you have ever seen a Kimberley bush fire. Glass bottles start fires up here its that dry. Almost every year they are started by a tourists campfire.



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